Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

On their own website, there are "classrooms" which are just a series of videos explaining certain key features. Very handy

Pixologic should have sent you links to all of their educational material when you bought the software. (edit - or started the trial period, unless they're slipping and not doing that anymore)

Michael Pavlovich on YouTube... I went from noob to relatively competent in about a week just watching his videos when I needed to know how to do something.

I watched this udemy course. He goes over step by step creation of a little monster character. From there Michael Pavlovich on YouTube for details. I especially recommend Pavlovich's boot tutorial. https://www.udemy.com/....../learn/lecture/4003788......

Before while it's a little bit softer. Clean with IPA to get excess off then immerse in hot water. Makes it even easier as the partially cured resin goes a bit rubbery but cures just fine after

Thx

I use a combination of Chitubox "auto-supports" and then a thorough examination of islands and manually-placed supports. Then the Photon File Validator

I like prusa because I don't have time to muck about for an hour with each model.

I did have to beef up the default settings ever so slightly, and I always add a few supports manually in areas that I know will need it (usually leading edges), but I don't have the time or patience to place them all manually.
That being said, I think you do ultimately achieve better results placing them manually.

I do Prusa for auto-orientation and supports, then open in Chitubox and manually place supports where needed.

Do you do a z-lift of 0 in chitu then? It would be nice to have access to some heavy supports...

Prusa auto have worked perfectly for me IF, you also run the thing through photon validator and manually fix any islands

Yeah zero z-lift. I find that generally Prusa auto-supports do a good job at placing enough supports to handle the load of the model, so I just find any stray islands and put light supports where needed.

Omar Silva this is also what I do. Works great.

a healthy mix of auto with the file validator to get what auto missed is my approach. very few failures.

„Snag“ ... you mean „stole“ ?

Hope you grabbed some ipa too

Bastian Dietert I asked first..... as I was leaving the building ?

Gary Houser No, I'm just about out of it, but I'm trying out Mean Green. I ordered a gallon last week so I hope it works well

I've switched to Mean Green exclusively. Works so well in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Todd Norton Glad to know that.

That’s a nice get! Hope your work hiatus goes by fast

Alex M Cruz At least until April 6th. I have projects and hopefully I can make a few bucks on the side.

I've heard it's dangerous to use Ultrasonic with IPA

Levelling, ensure the plates cleaned with IPA and dry

Check you build plate is truly flat. Don’t sand it if it isn’t contact support. Just make sure it’s flat. If it is, leveling. Assuming lcd test is all good.

Add a few seconds to base exposure time if your bed level attempts don't improve it. Last resort change base type from "skate" to "cylinder" in support settings, helped me and a few others

Use the settings suggested for the resin you have. 5mm is easy for a Photon

Gabe is that a runabout?

I printed a .02 layer height.

Does look like one doesn't it.

Micheal Fuller and how much time of exposure per layer?

5 seconds

Show a pic of your initial print of the object so we can help you.

Stephan Mccoll 2500 scale with rollbar

Stephan Mccoll

Gabe so damned adorable!

Micheal Fuller ok!

Mothy Reynolds I didn't print it yet since I don't want a failed print :(

What settings did you used for that miniature?

Franyely Montiel Standard settings for Anycubic Flesh

Franyely Montiel also when I’m doing small prints that need supports. I scale the print up. Add supports then shrink with print and supports like an object.

Franyely Montiel he means like the file.

.025 layer and 4 seconds.

That's awesome! Do you have a direct link? Looking for "Midgar", "FF7" and "Final Fantasy" and can't seem to find it!

Really cool print.

Edit: Found one on MMF: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-midgar-101209

Kyle Telechan yeah my bad, it was off mmf XD

That's absolutely rad. Might print one for my friend who's a big FF7 fan.

btw where'd you find the resin for £20 a litre?

John Jones on anycubic ebay page, was on sale

These test cube setting are for clear green resin as far as I’m aware. It may need settings adjusted for black

Check the XL chart online for your resin type.

This also happens if your build plate shifts while printing. Make sure your plate is secured tightly after you level it. Do not be afraid to crank on it.

mine is doing exactly the same thing

Chris de Leon could you send me a link please.

Corey Ardwin has the same problem - we also received black resin, had to greatly increase the exposure time - tagging him he should still have screenshots of his final settings that worked

These are the settings I’ve had to use to get the anycubic black to work. I haven’t tested these settings on the test cube, but they work for my miniature prints

I love how you look like you live in the cube....

Corey Ardwin thanks

I had the same problem a year ago... When I set up my printer for the first time, I decided to tighten the screws on the back of the vat holding the FEP in place... That was the problem as it also adjust the tension on the FEP... So I suspect your FEP's tension needs to loosened or possibly tightened depending on your situation.

https://dwn.alza.cz/....../anycubic_resin_settings.pdf

That's not a fail, it's beautiful. just kidding, I dunno, but it's still cool, good luck

I had this problem a few weeks ago with my photon S, I just cleaned everything, re levelled, and re sliced the model and worked perfect... there is a post on here from a few weeks ago ??

Re-level first, then run a test print.

Did you re level after changing the screen?

relevel and try increasing exposure time.
these lcds are not “calibrated” exactly the same on amount of uv light passing thru. so some may overcure and some may under given the same exposure time.

Would roughing up the plate help at all?

Wes Mischke no I didn't I will try that

Christian Savarda no I haven't I will try that

James Cho I have not and I will try that

NO!

Especially if they weren’t having issues before lcd change.

ok, just wondering.

Maybe it's lifting too fast, try slowing it down a little

We ran into a similar issue after replacing our screen. Try increasing the exposure time. That worked for us.

Thank you all for advice I found out that I had to relevel my bed plate and it prints out fine now

You can use Meshmixer to check and repair your STL files.

Those tyres are ace :)

All experiences welcomed,much appreciated.. Supports need to be all around the extremities,to force printing of the edges..especially corners.. have found a marked benefit by orienting off the bed...30 degrees off horizontal and maybe 10 degrees sidewa ys tip..on none round objects..obviously :) and lift speed..the vacuum effect off the FEP..another potential problem area often overlooked... https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Mike Kendel are your wheel assemblies 1 or 2 pieces (tires separate from rims)? I’ve found for my two piece wheel models, I get more uniform and precise roundness by orienting the parts parallel to the build plate. I need +/- .004” for a good mate between the two pieces. What scale are yours? They look great!

Ryan Jones I do the flat orientation with wheels and tires as well.

Nice

The current designs are combined wheel/tire, (1 piece). I had some issues with the wheel print rims separating from the wheel body when I printed them flat. I've noticed some issues with distortion in the tire bodies when they are "hot off the press" but they seem to normalize after cleaning, (I use warm water and an ultrasonic bath for up to 10 minutes). I checked a couple of the wheel prints, (hadn't modelled the tires yet), an found them to be round to within roughly =/- 0.005 inch and the dimensional accuracy to be about the same. Lastly, all of the parts that I'm making now are for a 1/12 scale Chaparral 2H Can-Am car.

I used to printed the wheel too, but never get perfectly rounded when angled it, so I back to flat with the plate, with support ?

Thank you Jason! The Fusion 360 software I am using for the designs has no capability to put text on a non-flat surface, so the lettering may be a little to high at the edges but I plan to sand it just a bit so it follows the tire sidewalls better before painting them.

Looks brilliant to me :)

Thanks Mike, some great tips, wheels look great

Thanks for sharing - no matter how basic someone will find it useful. cheers