Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I didn't notice anything special when I installed it. Drag and drop into the Applications folder like any other program.

I had the exact same experience as Benjamin Fox

Thanks, System preferences were blocking it, now sorted (i hope) cheers.

go to your system preference to allow installation

all done and working mate. Cheers.

I have to manually allow it to run every time I start my computer.

well, yeah. but it also depends on the model.

It could result in the horizontal line across the model, per my experience rarely visible. On this picture I've made 4 or 5 pauses, and they're clearly visible

Damn, my prints are better, than my photos

Happens all the time. Photographing the models is its whole own skill.

Thanks same experience as I had

My printer leaves a line every time i pause. I do it only if i really must.

Same here. It is not bad, but I still rarely do it because of that line.

You run the risk of getting a layer line when you print. Doesn't always happen, but it's a possibility.

I try not to pause my prints. When I pause a print, it is usually after a couple layers when I'm unsure if I heard the noise of the print leaving the fep

It could leave a line, but if your painting the part it doesn’t matter

Pausing a print should be 1 in 1,000 prints. Why are you pausing so much?

I pause every print while the supports are printing to check if the model properly attached to the build plate. I did pause coupe of times at later stage and did not really see any problems with the final print

Jordan Baldrige colour change?

Oleksandr is right. If you are pausing the print to make sure your print is on the build plate, pause it when your print it still in the ‘supports area’, that way your print isn’t affected should it shift or you get the ‘band’ on the print.

Luke Mason color change mid-print is not recommended by any manufacturer.
That is “shooting from the hip”.
No professional printing company will do this, because it gives bad results.

Dale Storer the right way to do it is have the correct setup that is trustworthy.
To do that it may take a failed print or 2. But it will result in a perfect print that didn’t needed paused.

Jordan, I’m just referring to the pausing if you want to check the print adhering, and the possible effects of pausing a print. I’m didn’t mention anything about supports.

Es mejor no pausar para evitar el riesgo de que aparezca una línea en la impresión

I paused one print yesterday because I was just curious what would happen and it caused one visible Line on my print

After adjusts, victory!!!

nice work1

Thanks Alex M Cruz :-)

what is the machine on the right?

A yogurt maker.

Rob Walker the wash and cure station

James Forder ?

Tell us more about the machine on the right. Did you build it yourself? If so what parts were used? How well does it work? If you bought it and haven't modified it then what model is it?

Made it myself from the following:
12v 1.5a PC fan
Aluminum project box
12v Timer
12v PWM speed controller
20x40 aluminum extrusion
Waterproof green led strip
Waterproof UV led strip
12v Power supply
Orange, mirror acrylic sheet
Magnets
Impeller
Tub
Magnetic reed switch
Nuts, bolts, solder, wire, paint to finish

Works really well, not had any issue with cleaning uncured resin and curing. Has saved so much time manually cleaning prints.

Thanks for the info!

Got a tutorial for the wash and cure?! For £50 that's awesome. Looks great too!

not got a tutorial but when I get chance I can take the lid off and post some pics of the inside.

That's really cool

that would be awesome mate. Be good to see how its done.

Depends on your resin... did you run any exposure test to see correct exposure? Does your level is perfect? Does the fep tension is correct? I do not use prusa for support but chitubox

Use a skate raft?

If the bottom of the supports are sticking to the Buildplate and the supports are not built, your normal exposure is most likely too low.

If you do not want to up the exposure, you could try lowering the lift speed as that will result in slower applic ation of force of pulling the print off the FEP... (slower application equals less force in this case)
Though it is generally better to up your exposure, since at this point if you would lower the lift speed and your supports build, your model could be torn off the supports as that resin has not cured enough and therefor isn't strong enough yet.

Edit:
If you have a FLIR, check the temperature of your printer surroundings, and your resin.... Ideally your resin should be at least 20C (68Farenheit) but preferrably higher than 25C (77F)....

you could also check your support depth and make sure it is in far enough to hold the print.

The supports aren't even there though all that's on the plate is the raft :/

Ok so i have it at 8 seconds, is there a list online of exposure times for anycubic resins? Or do i need to just test it myself for each bottle i get?

yeah then i would work on your normal exposure. have you used the chart as a starting point.. https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt....../htmlview......

you can only use this as a starting point as there are many variables that come into play for even print let alone every resin..

Aaron Strome Ok cool thanks, yea it's weird, i printed a chaos warrior like just last night and came out nearly perfectly with 30 sec bot layer and way less exposure, i don't get why suddenly its not happy. I'll try more exposure time.

yeah like i said a lot of variables including shaking it enough, waiting for bubbles to clear.

Considered using a raft?

Ethan Zachary each bottle can be different.
There is a big reference sheet out there, but that does not account for the UV-LED strength/quality of YOUR printer...
Each color definately is different.
In example:
Anycubic Translucent Green is (much) easier to print than Anycubic Black.

(for me the Green prints on 6 seconds,
I mixed black and white and need 8 seconds already for my custom "grey"... and that is borderline as I've seen some of my prints just barely succeed/fail due to under-exposure. )

Xi-Sheng Luo So i've gotten pretty good at diagnosing FDM failure, but is there a way to tell what's failing with my resin? Like what shows its underexposure rather than say a levelling issue?

Leveling issues are shown with the print not sticking to your buildplate.

However that sometimes is also partially underexposure of the base layers but then we are talking about baselayer exposures under 30seconds...

You need something solid to pull the print off the FEP.
Delamination/support breakage is due to the force needed to pull layer off the FEP exceeded what the layers could handle.
That is orientation to reduce force or higher curetimes to increase strengths or lower peel speed.

Since your print failed at the thick part of the support, the force was too high for a simple "dot" to adhere to the base layer.

Orientation is not a factor on a "dot", it is on surfaces that run parallel to FEP, as it sticks to more FEP surface.

So then there is curetime and peel speed left.

If you lower your peel speed now, you might have breakage at the tips of your support.

When do you change your peel speed then: when you go into extreme thin layers and/or fine detail, as higher curetimes also mean that your cured layer expands a fraction more, resulting in fine detail loss.

But you would first need to have a successful print which you then can measure/check for loss of detail/expansion etc.

Xi-Sheng Luo Can you have levelling issues between two prints within an hour of each other? I had a print stick to the plate, then changed exposure to 12 seconds and then suddenly nothing sticks.

use a raft and that will eliminate your issues

Ethan Zachary yes, that's possible,

you've held the plate wrong and torqued it a little when taking print off and ruined your levelling

but usually it means you might have some resin in the ball joint and you want to disassemble that and clean the ball, slightly sand the top while you have it open to give the screw that pushes down a bit more grip.

But there is a difference between "nothing" sticking to the plate and only the base of your supports sticking to the plate.

I only use manual orientation and auto support in chitubox. And check for islands in the file validator, and I've had no issues since I was told I had to reduce surface tension (I didn't do it before).
My only recurring problem is exposure for new resins...

Xi-Sheng Luo Yea it went from the base sticking, to suddenly nothing between prints, even after i increased the exposure time, and theres nothing stuck on the FEP either, I'll disassemble the ball joint and try to clean it. Do you have any good videos you would recommend? Or just google it and any work well? Also Do you know why i can't do the flint read method? The arm wont phyically lower enough, keeps hitting the vat edge

Go with the auto supports which includes a raft. Add manual supports as needed.

I just checked the bloody LCD this morning and it was just idk, lighting up the whole thing? Even when doing the exposure tests in the machine. So i flashed the firmware back on then it fixed itself. Just re levelled so will try to print again. Yea i just reset all my supports etc and orientated hollowed with holes then let the auto support handle it. we'll see how we go !

Ethan Zachary Oh, I feel your pain. My Photon is down because the LCD broke away from the machine because resin leaked through the resin tank and glued itself to the LCD. And, that is just one in a long string of sad litanies. I'm going to spring for a new machine that's more reliable.

Charles Davenport Man this is such a different process than FDM and the learning curve is huge XD usually the worst you get with my ender 3 if i fuck up is a scratched bed. Here it can flood your system, starting a toxic fire. I mean comeon man haha. Btw one of my D&D players character has the same name as you, he wanted the poshest and most upper class name he could think of XD (i mean that as a compliment, as awkward as it sounded)

Thank you! And I agree about the learning curve. I have a Zortrax 200, actually two of them, just humming away on several different projects. I guess we just have to tolerate the pain in order to get the details FDM just cannot do.

If your base is adhering to the plate but your supports are not adhering to the base, that sounds like an exposure issue. Did you run an exposure test? Personally I've found 8 sec it's not enough exposure. Mine runs at 10 seconds for .02 and 12 second s for .05 for most of my resins (this varies depending on the temperature of the room).

Which is another thing to consider. Is the room your printer is in too cold? Optimal is between 21 and 25 degrees celcius.

I've had the same question, I changed my FEP for the first time and did it after the instructions on the packaging..after that I saw a video from anycubic where they put a PET bottle capunder it before tightening. I did without the cap and it is just a bit tighter and I havent had any print fails, so I guess its fine

Marcel Hansen yeah, i use the cap method is well.. But it provides no answer as to where exactly i stop tightening the screws..

Sure, they say the iron ring needs to be lower than the border, but some of the screws still feel kinda loose when I get that far, so i tighten them a bit more.. Which may be too much, i don't know.

the only thing I noticed is that the Plopp sound is just a bit more quieter, so far I only had succesful prints so I guess I did it correctly

~300Hz, give or take. I use the “Spectrum” tuning app

Alastair Graham okay, mine is definitely too tight then, i got 400 ?

It's printing currently, we'll see how it comes out but i'll be loosening it a bit

Use a bottle cap and ignore it.

Richard Humble i do use one, but it doesn't affect the final tension when tightening the plate to the vat..

Lorenz Nijs do it up until the bolts stop. As per the instructions. The FEP stretches anyway (see your old FEP) so it's a waste of time.

Richard Humble alright, thanks

Lorenz Nijs I just use the bottle cap and tighten the screws till they stop, then a little (1/8th?) more so they won’t come loose from vibration. Remember that vat is Aluminum, the vat Threads will Fall before the steel screws. The ‘cap’ provides enoug h slack for the FEP to tighten when you’re screwing the frame to the vat. I don’t know anything about ‘tuning’ it like a drum, but it should sound like a Remo drum when done.

Dale Storer yeah, that's pretty much how mine sounds. Print is doing okay so far so i think i'm good. And if it fails it won't be from the fep being too tight at this point.

350Hz is 'round about' the pitch. A little higher and a little lower won't make a significant difference. But too much higher and you may tear things more easily. Too much lower and it won't be tight enough.

https://youtu.be/DLi3chV43LQ

It seems like a lot of people here are getting success with only the bottle cap.

One thought I've had about the smaller vat of the Photon Zero. A smaller vat, similar to a smaller drum, should have a different frequency when tuned correctly.

problem with tuning is that the FEP stretches, look at an old FEP -its baggy.

Used the bottle cap and a spectrum analyzer. Prints come out fine again.

yeah, I went that route in the end as well. I'd rather stick to something that's measurable for a starting point than to just fasten it nilly willy.

Might not be needed, but it just makes me feel safer and that's worth it.

Engineer by training. Know that feeling.

Thomas Holm chartered engineer here... I use the bottle cap and no tuning as the FEP stretches so your tune is lost almost immediately.

Fine for >1 year and probably about a dozen FEP changes.

Richard Humble it's not necessarily about keeping the tune anyways, it's about knowing that if you reach a certain tune you've got it tightened good enough.

I don't care if it loses the tune after one print, I just want to know I'm safe when I start.

Lorenz Nijs what is your start position defined by though? The bottle cap gives a good enough start in my experience.

I've yet to see someone explain how FEP tension makes any real difference. It will function on a huge range of frequencies.

Richard Humble come on man, is it that hard to understand some people just want to have something quantifiable to go off of instead of just doing something random?

Besides, the bottle cap doesn't have any effect on final tightness once you secure the ring to the vat, so I don't know why you bring it up? In no way does the bottle cap dictate how tight I turn the screws (and how tight the fep gets) once I attach the ring to the vat, so...

If it's in stock most amazon stuff ships in A week. The estimates are their worst case if they need to reprioritize your order lower for the necessities.

Exactly what Michael said. If it is not sold by Amazon and is not in their critical items list, it will be last thing packed. Most will be shipped Saturday through Monday mornings before the critical inundate the warehouse workers.

This came straight from call center. I tried to get them to ship a part for Nurse Practicioner working call center from home.

I’ve been ordering some home stuff, outlets, shelves, a greenhouse etc. Amazon said 15 days delivery on most items, being delivered today, two days after ordering.

I ordered resin said 21 days got it in 4

DO NOT PRINT LIKE THIS

PRINT IN AN ANGLE ON SLA/DLP

Print the castle directly on the bed, it needs ZERO supports it’s designed that way

Rigo Arevalo I feel like support less models are only designed for FDM. It's hard to remove items from the bed when they are flat... I would rather tilt about 15⁰ and use supports so I can I can get it off the bed undamaged...

As others have said, if you're going to print it flat (aka parallel to the build plate) then lose the supports.

Otherwise angle it, and then support it.

I do this all the time. Enough supports your fine

But only under it so you can hollow and drain holes

if it’s hard to get off your base layers time might be too high.

Chances are the cube will fail in some way.
From the screenshot I can already tell the corners are prone to bending as the supports do not run right up to the edge.
That is if it will not break off the supports at all as it's just a full parallel to the FEP.

If you’re really going to print it *that* small, you really have not being to worry about

I actually started using a single edge razor to remove smaller prints and it’s been a dream ?

Like this?

Why do i have to angle certain models? Any specific reason?

I'm starting small, my frist try was a huge print. I will start small, i need to test the printer asap.

support the castle like all model printed on photon ... castle print very well supported like you did

but hollow it and put some holes

Francois Lozach what about printing it without supports?

Hi, i actually have time to reply properly now.

The reason we angle prints on resin printers are multiple, but the main reason is to combat suction forces. Any surface area that is parallel to the buildplate, such as the cube will have a high chance of being warped the suction force when the printer peels off a new layer from the printbed.

Additonally, many prints will have their surface area per layer be reduced if we angle them. You will eventually encounter a print that just won't stick to the buildplate until you tilt it.

Ideally, the area of each successive print layer is lower than the surface area of the initial layers.

Mourni Tenchou My prints were getting stuck to to the vat. but it would also only print the first few layers

So should i tilt the cube as well?

Agreed. I'd also never again a model flat into the buildplate. last time i did many months ago I ened up scratching my buidplate since i had to resort to a metal tool to remove it.

Also, if you print something hollow onto the buildplate, chances are you will break the print when attempting to remove it.

You would need to angle a print like the cube to ensure it prints well. You will also have to oversupport it at the bottom, and it will either fail due to suction, get warped, or you end up with lots of blemishes from the support along a flat surface w here they are easily visible.

If you print it like it is now, it will definitely get stretched a tiny bit along the z axis. If you are looking for exact prints for prototyping consider z axis stretching on the photon. (its really minor)

If you angle the xyz cube for testing though, it would kinda defeat the purpose. There are a few test and validation prints also for dimensional accuracy on the photonsters github.

Exactly.
The fully parallel structure increase the suction force big time.

In resin printing you have the following things to consider for preparing your prints, among others.


I need to support all islands when looking at it from below.
Ideally, each later layer has a smaller surface area than my base layers.
Print time depends on the height of the print. Angling prints can reduce printtime.

Mourni Tenchou so should i print the cube as it is?

Unconnected islands.

Notice the ring and the dot not connecting, as the layer they are both printed at doesn't conect them. Support is necessary or it prints into the air and fails.

I've printed this and it worked out great. I just tilt it a bit on the back, supports only on the bottom and on islands, It's not hollowed.If you want, send me a message and I will send you the file that I have used. I don't know how much you can tell from the printscreen..

Bruno Shepard resin printers don't print flat surfaces the way FDM printers so. Even with a ton of support, the bottom will look melted because the resin is dripping/drooping while the exposure light is curing.

When you put an angle towards the build plate, you minimize how much is being cured l initially, then each layer builds on that.

I've been printing models for the last 2 years and have never had to angle a single print. If your build platform and settings are right your prints will come out ok.

The issue with angled prints is more points to clean. You get more anchors than is practically needed. More cleaning and clipping to do in the end.

Your prints getting stuck to the vat is definitely a sign of later layers being too large in surface area. You should also learn how to hollow prints. A hollowed prints typically won't have anyproblems with suction anymore as hollowinf reduces large layers by up to 90 percent. You can find hollowinf tutorials online. Don't forget to out holes. You don't wanna have uncured resin inside smth that can break.

Also if it's a test print still why not just do the cube, I did it with no supports, my latest print are these

And it's only my third print total on resin printer

Contact your reseller, chances are the boot-chip is wiped and you now have a paper-press...

In my case if I ordered it through amazon just go through that channel?

(Edit: If you are sure the power adapter is receiving power from wall-outlet and actually providing power to the photon)

From who ever you ordered....
Seems to me like pretty standard...

You did something and broke the machine while doing it, you can ask for a repair...

For devices that (can) receive a firmware update, from users, they (the product designers) really should make the firmware chip modular/interchangeable... as there are so many things that can go wrong with a firmware update leaving the user with a brick....

Then again, a lot of companies will throw it on user-error/misuse and will not cover this under warranty and charge you for fixing it.

If you have the knowledge/skills and tools you might be able to JTAG flash the FPGA.

Up your exposure in my experience

Yea i switched to the eco resin for these prints and thats when it started failing.I started a new print and i have uped the exposure on the new test run

Victor Huo which exposure time did you use?

Chris Moody i used 8 sec, and then i uped it to 14 which overexposed it

Victor Huo oh dang! Im using 12 and its going alright

Chris Moody im just about to try 12, 11 failed for me. idk why the supports come out fine but the objects fails to adhere to the supports