Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Cool!
Do the magnets need to be arranged North/South in a specific way? or it doesn t matter?

Just place the magnets on the wash and cure area and they will flip automatically into the appropriate orientation. Then you know which way needs to be downward. They get triggered by the magnets below the surface.

Very cool, I have a spare photon s shell I was thinking of making I to a curing station

Might not be leveled good enough so that the suction of the FEP is too high for the print itself to stick to.

Or supports are too weak to combat the suction.

This is happening to me 80% of the time. Will be happy to know the answer too

The skirt is stuck well enough, it's breaking at the points of attachment. I guess I could increase the size of the contact. Is there anyway to lubricate the fep?

Are you hollowing it?

no

Michael Fairall You should probably hollow it, and don’t forget to put vent holes

And also add some heavy supports to keep it from pulling off

I have hollowed in the past - I think they're more prone to cracking

Michael Fairall Sure if you don’t do it right, you need to make sure you have enough vent holes so that you can get all the internal resin out when you clean it (and reopen the holes with a drill if they plug up)

Hollow

Michael Fairall Or just add some strong supports haha and you won’t have to worry about it

Hollow, or stronger supports. I strongly suggest you hollow it, make sure the vent holes are on the right side so the resin can flow out of the cavity. The model is so thick it's a huge waste of resin to print it solid.

Lorenz Nijs i use auto vinyl spray - and vibe afterwards . Dont know if it is recommended in general. But my prints come out great ?‍♂️

Watch this series of support tutorials by 3DPrintingPro and watch your life change. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTZpvhfaNWY

make tip of the supports thicker. and let them penetrate the geo a bit deeper.

Lee Fletcher yeah, greg is great. but his thinnest support tips are 0.12mm thick. thats crazy thin. he figured it out, but it doesnt mean that his settings will work for others. different resins, different exp times...

It absolutely does work for all. It's not enough to copy his settings, you have to follow his workflow too.

Think about how this is printing. Your supports and raft are printing fine. The first bit of the actual model to get printed is the feet, but that's failed. So the supports were not strong enough to overcome the suction of the fep. Strengthen the suppo rts there. Hollowing helps reduce the suction by cutting down the surface area stuck to the FEP so you can use fewer supports, but you could print this solid if your supports were stronger.

Anders Jens Ramm I have a product called J wax. It's a spray on wax release agent. I guess it would work but I'd like to know in advance. Guess I'll just go for it......

what is vibe? BTW

It works, though. And you can use his supports as a sort of exposure calibration tool. If they fail, up your exposure by 1s til it fixes it. If they start to clump, down exposure by 1s.

He's currently doing all the presupported stuff for the Artisan Guild Patreon, and I've been printing perfect dwarves all month. EVen just pulling apart the STLs he provides for these I've learnt so much.

My settings are Original Photon, Elegoo Grey/Anycubic Grey, 60s bottom exposure, 8 layers, 9s standard exposure. Perfect every time. And the 0.12mm light supports still support what they need to, but they leave no marks when you pull them off.

Lee Fletcher I am already a patron of that tier. (I paid extra cause I am so bad it supporting.)

Michael Fairall my broken English. What I tried to say was “wipe” ?

You should be using pursa for supports

Jon Robert what is it that makes pursa better than chicubox?

Nope.

Looks like you need to put heavy supports where they will not be seen (Bottom of the feet and the crotch) this give you a solid pull point to break the suction. If the feet stick to the FEP as you seem to be doing then the whole model will likely fail.

His supports are amazing but not foolproof. Run his supported filed through the file validator. Lots of islands. His workflow is what is important. His settings are a great place to start and work out what your specific settings will need to be. N ot knocking his videos as they are what taught me how to not get shitty minis with pockmarks everywhere and failed prints but you can't use his settings verbatim and the presupported files from AG are not foolproof.

I don't think you need to lean the model, straight up and down. put a hole in the feet. Chitubox supports are good enough should be an easy print for you.

This used to happen to me quite a bit until I set supports to Heavy in Chitubox. Never had a problem since.

You may find some answers here https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/

Lee Fletcher he changed my printing life. Seriously awesome videos.

Always use heavy supports for large prints.

Hollow out the model, add holes. Make the depth penetration to what ever thickness you hollowed it out to.

Increase tip contact depth

Mary Carver same! ? ?

Yeah, the short answer is your support tips are too small/fine. If you're using Chitubox, the default light supports are worthless.

Fred Breton this does nothing really. It increases the contact diameter marginally, but once a model is sliced, it's all on or off pixels. Better to up contact diameter manually, or as stated above, heavier supports, hollow, and adjust exposure times.

Jason Pedersen try it, this help for tiny island to grow, i use tip size of 0.12 to 0.3.

Cannot see it, so asking. Look like alot of light support. Did you use any heavy to anchor it to the buildplate?

Jason Pedersen

I make mine smaller than the default and do just fine

Fred Breton that has nothing to do with contact depth though. I use tiny contact diameters for small islands too. How deep a contact goes into a model is irelevent.

Everyone saying the tips are too small does not make sense I make mine super thin even across different resins. Run an exposure test. and also hollow the print and add holes. Probably too much suction

Alexander Bayerdorffer Every one of them fails on me, even when the rest of the print comes out fine the connections from the lights are just gone.

Sounds like an exposure issue then or a suction issue. Perhaps your fep is also not tuned right. Too much suction could mean you need to hollow. Even if you tuned your fep after the first print and maybe even the first few it will loosen up and then se ttle in. And exposure while you think you might have it right my just be a touch too low. I have made supports as small as chitubox will let me and across multiple resins and prints with no issues.

Its not suction or the fep. Medium supports work fine. Everything prints fine, as long as they're not Light.

Just saying works for me

Alexander Bayerdorffer I know, and I appreciate the thought, just letting you know I've gone through everything I can think of short of beefing the lights back up. I might try switching them over to a beefier tip type anyway.

Jason Pedersen your sketch is right now you can decrease the tip size to the one you want at the contact point, and the extra depth will help you

I’ve had this same problem. I changed the support tip penetration from 0.25 to 0.35 on my small supports, and it fixed everything.

Fred Breton the depth doesn't help at all. Once a model is resin, it's resin. The support doesn't stick into the model, it becomes part of the model. The only thing that matters is the actual contact surface made with the model.

Jason Pedersen i resin print since 2009 i know it help

You're probably just underexposing, either enlarge your supports or up your exposure.

Try this one fellow ork

Anders Jens Ramm the program handles them better

I had same problem...figured out the build plate size settings were wrong

What size should they be?

Chris Robinson x=65 y=115 z=165

James Turner Why would the machine settings be wrong? I mean, my settings are wrong also, but the machine I picked was an any cubic photon. Weird.

calibrate your photon.. i used this video to help me. it is not for the photon but the principal is the same.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rEUyR9yoBI......

Chris Robinson yes,if using photon slicer it's right because program is written only for photon. Chitubox is written to use with many printers. Change setting and should work fine

James Turner Huh. Still, you'd think that if Chitubox offered a profile for a photon, something like the base plate size would be correct.

Chris Robinson chitubox just added photon recently. Used to have to design,support,hollow,save then open in anycubic to slice

Aaron Strome thank you! Will look into this asap!

James Turner , if those were not the default settings, I’ll need to try them out! The settings the other person suggested had decimals, and although it was close, it wasn’t right. ? and a preemptive thank you!

Aaron Strome I watched that video also, fantastic info there. Likely a must watch for all resin printers.

James Turner how recent is recent? I've had my Photon for about a year and have never used the Anycubic slicer, nor had these issues. I'm pretty sure that I used the Photon profile in ChiTuBox a year ago

Chris Rees I started using chitu about 2 months ago. Just updated last week and it had .photon in drop down which wasn't there before...maybe i downloaded an older version.

Chris Rees i just started with the Photon in January and Chitubox sometime in the last 2 months. Perhaps it’s a newer profile that is somehow incorrect?

Not sure. I know that once I changed the settings and quit using anycubic resin, my prints are only failing when user error is involved.

James Turner , I just tried those settings and got a result very similar to the far right print. That is working for you?

Adam Shane yes,it works fine for me. Haven't had a failed print yet with these settings

Use the XP finder and you’ll know exactly what exposure to use ?

There is a setting in the community doc for .025 layer height with the white that worked well for me

screen is ok but some led lamps died

LED array on the original Photon?

nope )

exactly! )

Pavel Vavilov yay, ten internet points for me!

How's the print going? Was it complicated/expensive?

Oleksandr Panforov havent tried yet. It wasnt so difficult. Cost was about 100$ including new power supply.

Pavel Vavilov pretty neat. Any printable parts required?

Oleksandr Panforov no, i used alluminium squre as a mount.

Pavel Vavilov would like to see the inside photos, if I may

front

compare

Oleksandr Panforov sure

Clean job. Nicely done

Thanks! )

Interesting Mod, have been thinking about doing this some time in the future...
Please let us know the results.

What's the point?

more uniform flux preventing underexposure towards the edge.

Test prints were totaly succed ) the mesh printed with 4s exposure

Pavel Vavilov I wonder if something similar could'v been achieved by just placing lenses over the existing UV-Leds.
and/or adding UV-led's to the existing assembly.

And then there's the LED-Driver, no idea what the original one draws (Voltage but more importantly Amps)
And what the replacement LED-Driver draws...
And if the output on the motherboard actually can handle the draw....

-edit:
Seem to have found an ali-express link to an array with LED-Driver... (just look for "80W High Power 405nm UV parallel light source")

"80W High Power 405nm UV parallel light source" - Yes, that what ive installed in my photon. But it was much cheaper.

Pavel Vavilov can the motherboard handle the LED Driver?

Xi-Sheng Luo , i changed the power supply to 24v, and connected plus pin of led driver directly from power supply, ground pin from the motherboard.

Nice!

ipa is in short supply so I tried some other cleaner. Uncle Jessie seemed to think they will work ok I used Fabuloso at about half and half water soaked for 10 min then rinsed

Mean Green has worked wonderfully for me

my only complaint on using all purpose cleaners is the foam has stayed in parts of the hollow parts and im not sure how to get it out lol

Really new to this stuff aswell, but I'm sure you shouldn't handle the model without gloves before it had its UV / Sun bath

Modell printer?

Igor Melnyk yes they were for the white clear.

Ether Quanta Deals Proton ?

Igor Melnyk The models clear is clear resin of sparkmaker.

Igor Melnyk they printed with xyz 0.1A SLA printer 3d.

Ether Quanta Deals me interest modell peinter

Igor Melnyk yes you can try with the silver.

Very nice work!! What did you do design with?

Neil Ramsay I used to design my models with Rhinocheros. but the sample models I used for the sample above which the white clear colour I took from the free models 3d on a website.

Wild guess, english is not your first or even your second language is it? Say what bro?

Marc-Andre Levesque my language is Bahasa Indonesia. english is not my first and second language, I am still learning english everyday.

Normals are flipped. Pop it into prusaslicer or 3D builder or mesh mixer and repair the file

Michael J Morris shit. Idk how to do that

Oksana Shevchenko download one of those programs I mentioned. They’re all free. 3D builder is on the windows market thingy. Just load the model into it and click repair when the notification pops up in the lower right

Michael J Morris ok. I'll try that

Michael J Morris omg there's so many prusa ones ..

I did it!! Thanks. Hahhaha

as others have said the normals are possibly flipped and as another has said the wing goes out of the build volume (this will make it go dark blue because it does not fit) but also the wing touches the horse's main body which will also cause it to go dark blue.

Nick Mcd it was in the print area. File needed repairing. Got it now :)

Oksana Shevchenko sweet.

Could you tell me where the stl is from? I would love to print that

Craig Gardner found it on myminifactory

I'll see if I can find the link

Finished print!!!

Found it, thank you. I've been looking for a good Pegasus for a while

Which resin are you using? The color looks great!

ToAuto red

Very nice, glad it worked out for you the second time.

4 hours?! You may be underexposing that a lot.

Yessik Ziiq no. This resin works for it. I didn't support the feathers

salvageable. place a piece of tape on the back wing and put a thin layer of resin down to fill the gap. harden under UV. Wont be perfect but at least it will have personality.

Herman Simpson omg you're right!!! I'm clear coating it after

Oksana Shevchenko What resin are you using, that seems so low, even translucent resins I find take 6-10 seconds.

That looks good to me, looking at the model in the link it seems like the wings are thin.

cut the wings off and u got a fine horse!

glad to help!

Kraken song?

Miky Corleon hahahhaha yes. Just finished watching dead man's chest

ToAuto. It's at 6 seconds :) I dropped the up down motion to 2 mm

Hoghead Hoffer hahahahaha it's for a friend

Tucker Harris super thin and I had to shrink it a bit

Oksana Shevchenko Ok that's a bit better, Does 2mm do the trick? I always just assumed there was a reason for the larger pull up distance.

Oksana Shevchenko they look thin even on the page. Maybe try increasing your exposure time a little bit.

Yessik Ziiq well. That's what I'm experimenting with. This resin is really runny. So it doesn't need at much time to fill back in underneath?

Interesting. I also defaulted high to 4.5mm I think. Is this resin you're using more liquid-y or viscous?

Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth.

Hoghead Hoffer Just like my mother used to say.

little bit of greenstuff and UR sorted

thats depressing