ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

TPE要用最好擠出機齒輪前後要有ptfe管

我們會試著提高溫度，然後放慢列印速度，試試看吧

一直卡住的問題無法解決，有人有解法嗎？或是有其他推薦比較硬的軟性線材嗎?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/....../IMG_0201.JPG

2.85mm左右鑽了擴孔插3-2的ptfe/pfa管都行

使用Repetier-Host+Slic3r

PC在忙嗎?

沒有只是純列印，所以說PC在忙會拖慢是嗎

換用SD卡列印看是不是就不會這樣了

了解，已經換到SD卡在試試

換到SD卡上就正常了，所以無法在電腦上直接列印

可以在電腦連線印，但是不能多工

其實這要看電腦忙不忙而定,
或是想辦法提高 repetier host的優先權..
不過為了避免意外...丟去從SD卡印還是比較保險的..
其實也是可以repetier host接著..但是選擇從SD卡列印

用工作管理員把處理程序的優先權提高不知道有沒有用？

請用mail聯繫我，jungtaw@gmail.com

已寄信

ATOM 1.99手冊上寫要留135CM，結果135CM跟本鎖不起來(太緊了)。最後，我足足多放了應該有半公分。所以，很好奇到底鬆緊要調到如何，對馬達最好?! 太低怕失步、太高怕馬達不夠力....

135cm是可以的，上次有位大大也是說135cm鎖不起來，最後才發現是自己的皮尺不準。

調皮帶音階這招蠻有趣的，晚點來試試調音App可不可以用

調音App這主意不錯！這樣大家都有調音器了! 誰能分享一下適合的App

怕不同裝置收音濾掉的音頻不一樣...不過實測看看才知道了

cool idea..., 晚上試試

我就是皮尺不準那位 準的135cm真的是剛剛好能鎖螺絲的長度

太棒了~這招真的可以Work
我已經將三組皮帶的鬆緊度(彈起來的頻率)調到一致~

快快快〜分享一下音值。我是彈長的那段（沒有緊迫器那段）的中間，值是C#

滑塊左邊皮帶顯示是C2,頻率是65.4Hz

滑塊右邊皮帶顯示是D#2,頻率約是78.4Hz

www再來就是出動張力記了

用和@高北熊一樣的App，我的左邊是69.5Hz。差不多。

這太科學!
太聰明了!

我是ATOM 1.99的用家。之前也有遇到類似問題。它是一個RS232轉USB的driver。在Windows裝置管理員裡，應該會看到一個COM port。Driver來源一是手冊上提的FTDIChip driver。若是這driver認不到，就試著裝Arduino IDE，它會裝"Arduino牌"的driver。

謝謝!還是不行,我有執行arduino-1.6.3,一樣找不到.

1.那個unknown device 點開來看vid, pid
2. 是Marlin.ino 無誤..
3. 2.0的板子是用FTDI driver無誤. 但如果你的windows曾經有以前的兩個FTDI失誤版本..而不是後來正常的新版..那可能會有FTDI的悲劇...
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm

感謝,悲劇的意思是要系統重灌嗎?

先show出來那個unknown device的vid pid再來看

韌體的部份好像真沒問題,昨天是忘了將電源開關打開,以至於認為掛了,更新完後側吹風扇終於肯動了.只是upload完後沒顯示done uploading,反而出現一大堆紅字,感覺很怪.附圖是unknown device的vid pid ,希望有救><"

在"詳細資料"裡有個欄位會秀出VIP/PID。要那張圖才有用哦。這張圖看不出來。

沒那個選項哩,是"實體裝置物件名稱"嗎?

只有這些選項

硬體識別碼按下去

硬體識別碼

這...拔掉usb跟ATOM的連線這個會消失嗎？
確定是的話...
那就只好呼叫
Po-Hsun Peter Wu 了

會,一拔掉會馬上消失~

還有建議先去上述ftdi官網換裝最新的vcp 驅動程式..
免得以後又再中招一次

超慘的，連VID/PID都讀不到.... 換條USB cable或插不同的USB port試試，還有板子的電源打開看看。再不行可能真的要呼叫原廠了...

換線跟換port都有試過,找有空時,重灌系統看看,再不行,救真的要麻煩原廠了,感謝各位協助 (y)

先試試看 virtual COM port driver吧 我之前mac 和pc都灌了就抓到囉

他可能本來電腦上的是舊的會毀掉vid pid的那版本...
所以應該已經沒救..除非用別的解法去重寫vid/pid

如果真的不行的話 再麻煩聯絡我們囉～

應該已經和電腦無關了。USB裝置基本initial都失敗了，這步是在裝driver之前的。我也覺得可以直接找Peter了。:)

結果回報...我後來將筆電系統重灌,再試一次依然是相同狀況,於是就跟原廠聯絡,將控制板寄回去做檢測,第二天接到電話通知,說板子檢測沒問題,我當時實在很納悶,但原廠為了消除我的疑慮,很阿莎力的換了一張新卡給我,並在隔天一大早就收到,收到當下馬上連線做檢測,原先找不到裝置的桌機,一下就抓到了,後來還先更新了韌體,一切都沒問題,但在將控制板裝上機座,再連線電腦時,居然又出現unknown device的狀況,當時瞬間傻眼,後來想到有可能是內部那條短usb線有問題,於是就用較長那條usb線直接連線,狀況馬上解決~~唉!實在沒想到會是那條線的問題...

呵呵. 我有說要換cable試哦 ! 我是吃這行飯的，這種問題見多了。

專業的果然就是不一樣，一眼就看出問題了！

哈,我是有換線試,不過是換外面那條長的,那時板子是鎖在玻璃板下,一時沒想到那還有條線,但是將板子寄出後,是有想到寄前該再測試一下的...

lengh 5.5 speed 60 ~90找找看
還有確定一下快速接頭兩端回抽時
有沒有額外的作動空間 …… 查看更多

對不起，甚麼是快速接頭兩端回抽時有沒有額外的作動空間

看橘色箭頭的地方~ 如果快速接頭前端黑色的部分於回抽時有額外的作動空間時，可以拿個東西繞住橘色箭頭指的地方(可以用鐵絲，或是焊錫等好彎又好固定的東西XD)

所以快速接頭在回抽時會後退是不對的，要用東西將他卡住，不讓他後退對不對

恩..拉好..把管插到底..
不然怕回抽的誤差會更大...

謝謝您的指導

回抽，10, 0.1, 120(or100), 0, 10, 打勾，打勾

移動速度100~150, 看你的共振帶跟會不會失步

溫度我個人是185，建議你慢慢試

感謝您的指導，修正後重新列印，有好的狀況再向您報告

右上角小圖點右鍵可以選擇變換方向。這好像超過列印範圍了吧，要站起來印...

Thank you!! 似乎拆件列印比較可行...

有個speed bar可以左右拖...fast / precise之間去設定...
越靠近precise越慢

Try another power supply is a good start.
Any DC 12V over 5A power supply is fine. Or a ATX / AT PSU from PC.

BTW, could you measure the resistance of the hotend heating circuit? It should be around 3.2 ohm.

I have a PC Power Supply and I see that the 12V supply is from the Yellow and Black wires. I have cut off the Atom2 power wire from it's power brick, but how to tell which of the 2 conductors is + and which is - ?

Could you see the + /- mark on controller board?

Yes - I see those 2 connector terminals. I thought I would use the original power connector & wire that plugs into the Atom2 from outside. But I guess I can run new wires directly to those 2 terminals on the motherboard.

To check the resistance of the hotend heater, can I leave the 2 blue wires connected to the motherboard, or should I disconnect them?

Disconnect might be better to isolated the problem.

Blue wires show 2.6 - 2.7 ohm resistance.

looks fine

Problem - the PC power supply will not stay powered up unless it has a load on it somewhere. When I switch it on the Atom2 LCD lights up for an instant, and then goes dark. I believe that's because there is no load on the power supply.

Maybe hit minimum load issue, did you triggered the ps_on pin to gnd if it's ATX.

What is the ps_on pin? Is it on the Atom2 motherboard?

The PC power supply I have is from a real IBM PC/XT. But I have another, smaller one that is from some other kind of PC system. That one might behave differently. I'll try it and see.

AT psu on PS_ON pin, ATX psu need to pull down ps_on pin to gnd to power on. The ps_on pin is on ATX_20 or 24 connector as green cable.

http://lqv77.com/....../2009/01/ko-kich-nguon-02-467x400.gif

Good news - the other power supply powers up and stays on. I have Atom2 LCD on OK, fans are running. I will try Preheat 200 and watch temperatures.

Extruder holding @ 200 degress. Now trying Auto-home & Auto-Level, feed filament (all filament is out of printer now), and the print 50X50 part.

The critical case might be combine them together.
Since the current usage max when heat up from room temperature & when movement acceleration.

The printer moved OK with heater on but I had some sort of problem with filament feeding. I'm checking on that now.

Printer is printing OK and extruding OK now. FIrst layer )on build plate) has some filament globs but that could be due to whatever problem I had before. Or maybe the 50X50 print temperature of 190 should be 200. I will let it print some more and the n restart the print to see if I can get a clean result.

I htink this proves conclusively that the power brick that came with my printer is either defective or provides insufficient power. None of the other power bricks I have are suitable - they are mostly for camere equipment and do not output sufficient amps. So can you provide me

So can you provide me (and your future US customers) with an appropriate power brick? In my case I also need the cable that plugs into the Atom2 because I cut it.

Thanks for all your help with this.

We will send you a newone ASAPwith our testing .

Excellent - thanks

Just for reference, the PC power supply I'm currently using is at least 15 years old and rated at Input =110V 5A/220V 3A, output= +5V 20A -5V 0.5A 12V 8A -12V 0.5A. I don't think it was ever actually used in any PC system.