ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

有趣! 他是用0.25的噴頭，但他說有人用0.4有印成功，晚點來試

這要分開列印~別浪費在這種高難度列印上

列印中，等等就知道能不能轉

这个分开印，然后装起来会好一些吧。类似差速轮还是啥东西。。四驱车用的？

快好了

看起來不錯但挑戰失敗，轉不動

https://youtu.be/AaLKpaXTvDE

I think it's normal.
Perhaps only 0.1mm difference from each side, and it's smaller than auto-level tolerance..

Well Charlie, you could be correct. I decided to let the print continue as is because it seems to be going OK. I don't recall seeing this issue before, but then I also have not printed anything of this shape before either. Makes me wonder if this situation is unique to my printer of if others have encountered it also.

Try board roughness from 0 to 0.3 mm, and see what happens.

That's a new one for me. Is that an item on the LCD screen?

No. Do it from KISSlicer.

Oh. Well I don't use that slicer. I use Craftware and I don't think it has any option like that.

OK - I did a little research and discovered the following:

1. Kisslicer's Bed Roughness adds the given value to first layer height and increases extruder flow to compensate for the larger extrusion.

2. Craftware has a whole section of parameters for controlling the first layer. The pic below is what my settings currently are.

My standard layer height is 0.200 mm so it's not clear I should increase First layer height any more than it's current 0.350 mm. But maybe I should increase Extruder Adjust to something like 180%.

I think Z adjust = bed roughness.

Yes, I agree. But I use the Z-Adjust function of the LCD menu.

I would call this symptom not precise/correct enough measurement on Auto Level running.
There are some variable could trigger this result.
Usually I would monitor Auto Level many times to make sure it's result reproduced or difference a lot. (from pro nterface to check G29 array result, record them & compare.)
Actually some little check/ fix on all moving mechinical related to the effector, Z min endstop, signal cable length, even ptfe tube seperation might made different stability quality.

The part took just under 12 hours to print, but it did finish OK. There is a second part of about the same size that goes with it and I hope to post results in another day or so.

Since it did finish OK I guess i should not be so obsessive/compulsive a bout a slight problem with the first layer. I will try varying my Z-Lift value a little to see if that helps the situation at all, but I'm not likely to do anything more complex than that. I understand the things Clarence pointed out, but the results I'm getting suggest my printer is basically OK and does not need any detailed tweaking.

The Zebra Plate seems to be the reason for this issue. I took the plate and the finished part off the printer to separate the 2, and I really paid no attention to the orientation of the plate when I put it back on the printer. But when I started printi ng the next part I noticed that the thin area had moved to a different direction completely. So this tells me that the Zebra Plate may not be exactly flat, or there may be some un-evenness in the way the plate sits on the glass print bed.

it's foldable, so it's not perfect flat, it's also the reason why clips required. I have some mark to keep it place at the same direction.

Hey Birk Binnard ,

You're not alone. Experienced that one for a long time. Solutions for me: Running Auto-Level at 10% Speed (instead of 50%) really gives you much! It costs more time but is amazing.
And: Auto level 2-3 times and check if the printer has different results, especially more than +/-0.1mm.

In my case, doin auto level with 10% solved that problem for me :)

Joschka - what a great idea - thanks. I would never have thought of that. Will give it a try when my current print finishes (sometime tomorrow.)

Sure thing.
I was wondering if you might have experienced the same:
When the printer moves, executing his gcode command, and you turn the knob for any menu thing - does the menu react? Or does it first react when he "finished" that g-code line / move?
This is what was wondering me. As in my case, he doesn't react until he finished the line, resulting in wrong choices in the menu etc.
But on top of that - I got the feeling that his "reaction time" is around 2-3 seconds. This can also be seen while he does auto level - in my case he moves to "Z -20" and hits the bed with the nozzle. it >should< show now what value Z has on this point - but sometimes it doesnt, he just moves to the next point. When doing Auto Level on 10%, he shows it.

On top of that: Imagine the printer moving to Z -20 on Auto-Level. Doin this with 100/50% speed, he "crushes" into the bed too much because of his reaction time. 0.11mm too much for example. Next spot hits the endstop RIGHT on the spot with the reaction time - 0.00mm too much. Next one reacts in between, 0.05mm too much.
Hope you understand where I'm getting here. As far as I know, the Atom Printer runs an 8 Bit processor - which is actually not so ideal for a Delta printer. Dunno if a 32bit system would help with that reaction time.
Just my thoughts and my experience - hope someone can clarify this :)

The only time I do anything with the LCD panel while the printer is printing is to Pause a print, then Auto-Home, then Stop Print. This happens when I see there is something going wrong with the print or when I want to stop it for some other reason. So I can't really address the issue you raised.

From a programming viewpoint I can see how the firmware might disable all interrupts during the execution of a GCode command. This would be a logical thing to do since a single-thread processor can only do one thing at a time, and since the firmware has to take into account things like acceleration and momentum it could easily lose track of what was going on if it had to switch to another activity while the printhead was in motion.

I've often thought it would be a good idea for 3D printers to have motion control sensors that tell the machine where the printhead actually is, how fast it is really moving, etc. That way there could be correction commands given in the event of a stepper motor missing some steps, or some sort of interference with the printhead itself.

I agree that an 8-bit CPU seems a bit weak for this kind of use. Frankly I didn't think there were any 8-bit CPU's still out there. My first computer had an 8-bit CPU (Intel 8080, subsequently swapped for a Zylog Z-80), but that was more than a hundred years ago!

I guess that, in the case of a 3D printer, the CPU doesn't have to compute any faster than the printer itself can absorb commands. And this is limited by physical things like stepper motor size, the amount of moving mass, etc.

https://atom3dp.hackpad.com/Faster-deltabot-kossel......

Did you try the 1/16 microstepp setting? It should help a lot about the performance.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Step_rates

Very interesting. But I am neither brave enough nor smart enough to try changing motherboards.

我雖然也會寫程式 可是我數學不好 XD

用不到什麼數學，主要是座標和集合的觀念而已

如果是照片想要崁入杯體可以做得到嗎？

好像有這功能 https://en.wikibooks.org/....../STL_Import_and_Export

縮到7公分直徑果然是太小了，有些筆劃會被吃掉。但這版的表面細膩度好很多，杯體本身也是一次到位，沒有絲毫浪費。目前準備改印直徑10公分版本。

另外，這個檔案需要較高的elements 數，不然會跑不出來。

這類作品基本上適合深色料印列。

改了寫法～～～發現 OpenSCAD 要留意物件描述的寫法，在運算上會有一定程度的差異。先前版本大概都要８０分鐘算完，改寫之後，大概４９分鐘算完。

另外，像這種刻字的物件，噴嘴口徑是先天限制，筆劃密度是挑戰，以內凹的字體來看，字體最好選用極細的黑體字，呈現的效果會最好。

目前在印１２公分直徑的版本，這個主題將會在此暫告一個段落。換下一個題目來挑戰了～～

丁大你後來的檔案我跑不太出來耶

你軟體版本? 另外後來的我有提高 elements 數的上限,不然會出現警告.

在官網下載的最新版,這是他跟我警告的東西,圖也只有出來這樣Compiling design (CSG Tree generation)...
Compiling design (CSG Products generation)...
Geometries in cache: 278
Geometry cache size in bytes: 41956648
CGAL Polyhedrons in cache: 0
CGAL cache size in bytes: 0
Compiling design (CSG Products normalization)...
WARNING: Normalized tree is growing past 200000 elements. Aborting normalization.
Normalized CSG tree has 80 elements
Compile and preview finished.
Total rendering time: 0 hours, 0 minutes, 9 seconds

Normalized tree is growing past 200000 elements.

所以說要在 preferences -> advanced 裡面提高 elements 上限。

Charlie Ting 感謝丁大,我再來試試!!!

Charlie Ting 成功了!!!!感謝丁大(跪拜中~~)

郭老師
請問何處可以下載3D資料

這些根本就是我當年考證照的東西，存在了好久wwww

導料輪上的祈禱少女

居然是為了看她在送料回抽時轉動的 附屬產品

先上未清理現醜一下

原始物件算小，整體高度約81mm，手指細的跟牙簽一樣，不過看起來應該是成功的。

戴大，這檔案我可以po到我們的粉絲去分享下載嗎？

有註明作者就好

古銅金，層厚0.15mm，物件高度81mm，列印時間6h18m，散熱夠的話，就無明顯熱堆積的情況發生，手指部份列印還可以接受，畢竟已經比牙籤還細了

臉部有崩掉的感覺...

應該是拍攝角度的關係

這種金粉料是哪一牌的?

我們公司自行生產的

貼來看看!!!

這是直接線材列印出來的效果，沒做其他處理，要貼什麼給你看？

能下單的地方.....

這料有賣?

我們做外銷市場，內銷無賣場，有興趣可以直接匯款購買

@@

等我需要用到時再買好了 謝謝囉 那東西也不曉得能不能做成功還在實驗階段

有需求歡迎聯繫

謝謝

這...樣的酥胸非常棒～
支撐何不自己設計？

檔案可以分享嗎?,我想試試

還好沒長到嘴上 活像在吞劍 XDDD

手指散熱不良, 加強散熱~ 或嘗試到那一層時把溫度改低一些, or both~

可以修改特定層的溫度?!!!

手動改gcode, 或用支援這功能的軟體, 例如 Simplify3D

如果要改gcode要尋找的關鍵句是哪一行?

簡單一點是找 Z的高度...

下次找找看好了＠＠

這有點要吞劍的感覺!!

是什麼東東

未組裝ATOM2.0吧

往左邊的意義好像不是這樣用的;p
那是BBS退出這頁的意思.. XD

我拆過不少硬碟，但就算同一個牌子，不同年代軸承也不一樣，這個可能拆一個就要設計一個…XD