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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-02-09 23:15:32

Hey there :)

Finally got my stringing problem. Changing to Craftware solved it mostly...
Buuuuut... Argh.
New Problems arriving:
1. Overhangs. They look scary. They fall down, creating bad edges.
Look at the photos for yourself. Printspeed was 30mm/s, 185°C.. Dunno what to do on this one. As one of my side fans has some interference with the magnetic rods, it makes loud noise when the printer collides with a part or homes after prints. Dunno if it has something to do with that - although it works through the whole print.
2. My ceramic heating ring - oh how I love you. Or more - the temperature.
ATM I have to print 1300 plastic rings. For the first charge, 200 rings. As I have to print fast and details arent necessary, I print at 60mm/s and temperature at 205°C.
First Problem: Heating to 185 - 195° takes less than a minute. Its really fast, thats good. But above 195°, he stutters. Getting back to 190, 185, then rising back up to 198, back to 190, up to 200, then 190, 202, 193, 205, 198, 207, 203, 198, 205 - starting print.
Well, okay. He finally reached it. After 5 Minutes.

But second problem comes within the print... He loses temperature. Down to 189°C - this is too less for 60mm/s, ruining my prints. Hope you guys have a solution.
Thanks in advance!

翻譯年糕

Birk Binnard
2016-02-09 23:47:00

Your photos did not make it! And please show a photo of your side fan that has the interference problem - this definitely should not be happening. I recently installed new side fans on my printer and there is no interference.

Also, I print everything @ 190 C. I found that higher temps results in more stringing - probably because the plastic is more viscous. I presume you are using PLA, yes?

As far as the temperature stuttering goes, what you report is not that much different from what I experience. My printer does not take 5 minutes to settle down however - it does it in about a minute or so. So it is possible your thermistor is bad - or going bad. From what I've read thermistors have a finite life and need to be changed out after a while. I am not exactly sure what "a while" really means, but I bought 10 of them since they are very inexpensive.

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 00:03:38

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 00:03:39

Hey Birk Binnard , thanks for your fast answer :)

You cannot see anything on those side fans that looks awkward. Atm hes printing, so i'll send pics of print and fans tomorrow.

Of what you asked: Yes, its PLA :)

About temperature: Yeah, I always print at 185-195°C (depending on slicer, Cura was 195, Craftware only needs 185°C) with 30mm/s. Thats enough and gives nice prints.
Those rings need to be done fast. And as I have contact with some "experts", they explained me: "If you print faster, the Filament goes through the hotend faster, too. It has less time to heat up and melt. To solve this, heat the hotend up more. Try 10° steps." - That sounds logic. And this can be seen in my actual print - as the filament is pushed through hotend at 60mm/s and he just pushes little strings when the temperature is at 190°C or below, and above 200°C, everything looks fine.
A Thermistor Problem would be explainable if the printer is showing completely wrong temperatures. To me it seems like theres another problem with the ceramic heater as the old one (which I sadly broke somehow) had >no< problems heating up to 240°C in less than five minutes and holding that temperature steady. But - I'm no genius and will always be open to any hints :) How to check that thermistor anyway?

And of course, this time the photos for problem nr 1

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 00:03:53

Please note that on this part I always put some work on clearing it from any unnecessary stuff. :)

Birk Binnard
2016-02-10 00:35:55

This is a view looking inside the part from bottom to top, yes? It looks to me like the top area of the part is pretty much horizontal, and it is very difficult to print horizontal areas without support. In my case I changed my designs to be more pointy at the top, but I understand you may not have this freedom.

Birk Binnard
2016-02-10 00:39:56

Hmmmm...to me this looks like an extrusion-related problem, What sequence are you using for Drawing Order? For a part like you show I'd suggest fills - loops - perimeters. That way you are more likely to have more material for the outer loops to grab on to. The widely spaced loops you show look like there was just not enough material behind them to allow a smooth exterior surface.

Birk Binnard
2016-02-10 00:49:39

Good logic about how print speed relates to extruder temperature. I have always printed at 55 mm/sec and don't change that - just so I have one less variable to deal with. But I have no time pressures, so I understand why you may want to print faster s ometimes.

Upping speed could affect all sorts of things - not only the temperature. What about acceleration, prime/retract speed, 1st layer speed, etc.

I would not say that a failing thermistor manifests itself only by showing incorrect temperatures. From what I've read they can do all sorts of odd things - basically non-repeatable and seemingly random things. Since they are inexpensive and easy to replace (provided yours doesn't get stuck and have to be drilled out like mine was) you might want to change it out just to be safe.

The heater disk is another issue however. Apparently these disks are extremely difficult to obtain. Clarence Lee was was able to find a place in Japan that has them, and he was kind enough to forward 2 of them to me. So I know they can be found - but I have no idea how to do that.

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 17:45:21

Well yeah, thats it. Didn't think of that one earlier... :/ But it makes sense! Thanks, will try it on a test print!

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 17:46:18

Yep it is. Maybe its the same problem as the wing - as those circulars go closer and closer together, it shouldn't have any problems... :) Well. Yeah. Shouldn't. But it does ^^"

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 18:37:55

Okay. Two things again... XD
1st: on that ring print, somehow Craftware put a completely wrong G-Code before "End-GCode" where he told the X axis to move to -95 - which was impossible. Stuttering in Printbed -_- '' Well, deleted that one but can't expla in why he did that.
2nd: Made a vid - and thanks for reminding me of looking at that side fans!
Sooo - seen from front, the right one makes noise - and turns >slower< than the other one.
Hope anything can be seen in the vid. Or heard. Its pretty bad quality, dunno why...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yti5_SGxk3I
Thanks in advance!!!

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 23:12:12

Uh another question for you Birk Binnard as you use Craftware.

Somehow, he adds another Layer on every print, telling the printer to move away from the part and then end the print. Well, when I use the build volume completely on X/Y Axis, he tries mo ving outside of print volume, resulting in the carriage going all down and then stuttering. Dunno why and when this happend.
Gcodes is following:
G0 X-100.983 Y6.0000 F6000
And on my last print he even retracted more than 100mm of Filament like being unloading it.

Any ideas? :)

Birk Binnard
2016-02-10 23:15:43

1. Do you have the latest version of CW? It is 1.13. The previous version (1.12) had bugs like that. Needless to say, my CW does not do things like that.

2. Are you printing from an SD card? I have never tried printing directly from my PC and I know Win10 has some communication problems with USB?Serial ports - or at least is used to. Maybe they are fixed now.

Joschka Friedl
2016-02-10 23:31:37

Always SD. :) and cw is 1.13..

Birk Binnard
2016-02-11 00:41:03

Post a message on the Craftware forum with a link to your STL file.


原文網址 Timmy Chen
2016-02-09 19:02:09


原文網址 Valentino Megale
2016-02-09 17:02:39


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2016-02-09 05:29:22

Will I be successful?

Estimated print time is 2 days + 8.5 hours. Part is 253 mm high. Will post updates as things happen.

翻譯年糕

Stanley Ho
2016-02-09 08:05:01

Ok,waiting for your further result...

Birk Binnard
2016-02-09 08:31:34

Well, I had a small design error in the part and had to fix it and start over. So I lost about 3 hours, but I am back on track now.


原文網址 Håkan Fägnell
2016-02-09 02:30:55

Im right now trying to make a dimmable light that closes when the machine is not printing anymore. On my prusa. :) Ill keep you guys posted on the update.

翻譯年糕


原文網址 Klimkarov Sashko
2016-02-08 18:37:41

you can make this...... :)

翻譯年糕


原文網址 Santina Martino
2016-02-08 18:24:04


原文網址 Ying Yuan Liu
2016-02-08 17:02:32

連印兩次都出現問題。都是隔天起來看印完了,但只印了一半左右料就不出來,都是線材在原地刮料。重新加熱Load線材,噴頭沒有堵住,請問有可能的問題是?

張張家祝
2016-02-08 17:05:26

1是夾太緊嗎?
2那把馬達的齒輪外外移一點試試

Odinson Thor
2016-02-08 17:07:43

這個常遇到,回抽太長,遇到模型特性需要頻繁回抽時就會讓溫度在喉管累積,等溫度高到足以融化喉管區的料時,就會堵住,這時候擠出機不管怎麼擠都無法出料,最後就會變成這樣

廖新弘
2016-02-08 18:22:16

擠料臂不要鎖太緊

Timy Fat
2016-02-08 18:39:29

擠料輪上面的堆積物也可以清一下,不然容易滑掉

李穆
2016-02-08 19:23:33

用kisslicer 1.5 beta 2.22版 vP設定壓在25到30間就能改善

Charlie Ting
2016-02-08 20:10:45

看一下參數比較知道問題可能在那裡

吳哲霆
2016-02-08 21:37:17

參考速度
調整棘輪的緊度
馬達接的齒輪有打滑過的話記得清齒輪以免再打滑

高北熊
2016-02-08 22:50:34

1.擠料夾頭鎖太緊,右上角的螺絲要鬆一點
2.噴頭溫度太低

Mark Chen
2016-02-10 01:02:19

列印速度過快 外加 設定溫度太低


原文網址 宋昇嶧
2016-02-08 00:52:47

猴猴耶~~


原文網址 Clarence Lee
2016-02-08 00:08:54

mintemp set to 0 on previous version

翻譯年糕

Harry Cayne
2016-02-08 00:19:00

what did you improve in it ?

Roy Lo
2016-02-08 00:19:22

這個版本沒有 M666, 對吧?

Clarence Lee
2016-02-08 00:30:05

非官方2.0.4通用包..
預設1.x可用
configuration.h的// # define ATOM2 前面的//拿掉就可以2.0用


 

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