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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2016-01-15 06:01:46

PID Values gone wacky?

I recently had to change my printer's thermistor, after which you are supposed to update the printer's PID values because, apparently, different thermistors behave somewhat differently. Well, I did not do that, and then I noticed my hotend temperatures were deviating quite a lot from the specified value. "Quite a lot" means up to 20 degrees.

Well needless to say this caused all sorts of extrusion problems, so I figured I better do the PID reset. I followed the steps on the Atom2 website and ended up with these values: Kp = 30.90, Ki = 2.79, and Kd = 93.32.

I used the LCD panel to enter these values and then did a Store Memory/Load Memory. So I think I got the new values saved OK. I did notice that the new values were quite a bit different from the ones previously in the firmware.

Now my printer is printing and doing a great job with extrusion. But the LCD says the temperature is 166/200. This can't be true because at 166 my PLA filament would be completely solid. But the extruder is working fine and the layers look great.

In the time I have typed this the LCD has changed to 177/200. So I must have messed something up - but what?

PS: Now the LCD says 167/200 - but printing looks A-OK.

Edit: After about 12 minutes the hotend jammed and the extruder was not able to feed filament. So my guess is there is something messed up with the temperature control.

Edit 2: I hooked the printer up to Simplify3D's Machine Control Panel and watched the temperature plot as I tried different values for the hotend temperature. All of the plots looked good - I changed temps from hotter to colder and back again and the indicated temp always hit the specified value right on - and held it. Moreover, the LCD display also indicated the correct temperature and was in agreement with the temperature plot.

So I started my actual print again and (again) it seems to be going ok. But the LCD says 167/200 right now.

Most confusing indeed.

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-15 08:57:19

Is side fan blowing when it's 16x/200 ?
Is bottom wind shielding available?
Where did you get the thermistor?
Is it NTC 100K?
B 3950?
Or even have a model number like MF58


原文網址 Trucker J Stefan
2016-01-15 00:36:28

how do you like my darth vader minion print?
more videos comming soon.
from print to smooth till paint, al´l captured on camera

翻譯年糕

Dan Salvador
2016-01-15 10:53:57

you should buy Atom buddy :-)

Trucker J Stefan
2016-01-15 17:30:13

this is not mine, I use it at work and for calibration I also print some og my own designs
I want to get one for me, but there are so many so I can't decide which one will fit my needs best, that's why I'm here, to check out all your nice results


原文網址 Vincent LM Yeh
2016-01-15 00:29:28

[回抽速度設定請教]

目前版上看到的回抽討論比較多是在於回抽距離的設定,
我目前設定的回抽距離是5, 請問速度該如何搭配?
25,50,還是100?怎樣設定才會有最好的效果?
速度越快效果會越好嗎?

此外在列印時,用旋鈕去改變列印速度時,回抽速度也會跟著變嗎?

陳明谷
2016-01-15 08:31:39

回抽距離5
表示擠料馬達回抽5
但噴頭回抽不一定有5
速度越慢越晚出料也出越少料
太快料不一定來得及溶化可能卡料
所以需要尋找時間點
這時間每個人操作因數都不同
自然最後結果也會不同

Roy Lo
2016-01-15 08:49:42

目前我的韌體是參照 Clarence Lee 提供的韌體Marlin deltabot,切片 用 Cura(15.4.3),回抽速度 100, 距離9, 當列印時用旋鈕改變列印速度(%), 回抽速度也會變,至於牽絲(不多, 很細), 不同的線材也會有不同的結果,圖中紅色的白色是明燿提供的PLA改(加韌), 紅色的是魔力紅, 以上~

陳明谷
2016-01-15 08:56:17

超級厲害 我看到那麼多零件就退縮了

Roy Lo
2016-01-15 08:58:54

陳明谷 我也還沒印完٩(๑´0`๑)۶, 軸心的鐵條不知道哪裡買的到~

廖新弘
2016-01-15 21:16:45

鐵條可以網路或者手工藝店去找

Roy Lo
2016-01-15 22:11:53

鐵條用鐵釘剪一剪將就一下,剛剛試組,發現要會動的順,真的不簡單~(TT)


原文網址 林一旭
2016-01-14 23:20:26

話說 哪隻劍好看呢?還是雙刀流......................XD

曾俊維
2016-01-15 09:16:58

當然要雙刀流啊。

Noki Noki
2016-01-16 18:53:08

大師級的做品,怎樣看都好


原文網址 張不凡
2016-01-14 20:03:16

Hi, 各位好 :)
我手邊有一個客戶的案子, 目前考慮材料是 ABS 顏色不拘,
這是一個需要潛水用的零件, 需要強度還有耐海水...
但客戶不考慮使用金屬製作 ( 應該是怕海水? )
如果有其他更適合的材料也希望能建議給我參考 ( 小弟才學疏淺 )
目前客戶希望報價參考看看, 徵求... 不怕被毒死的勇士...
意者請私訊 :# 謝謝各位...
尺寸目測約 15cm 立方體內

*徵代印文如有不妥請告知即徹, 謝謝*

戴士偉
2016-01-14 20:11:07

碳纖???

Marco Lai
2016-01-14 20:14:26

僅限於 RP材質 還是射出成型
如果僅限RP可以考慮使用光固化的醫療材質。
倘若是射出成型,要考慮是否可以拆模,然後使用PPS射出,因為要耐海水的化學侵蝕,以及受到海洋高壓的變化。

陳順得
2016-01-14 20:14:42

多面像的東西,強度行不行呀

陳順得
2016-01-14 20:15:27

看起來可以把圓柱跟本體分離,然後再固定

戴士偉
2016-01-14 20:16:33

PEEK ?

郭建治
2016-01-14 20:17:09

尼龍如何?

張不凡
2016-01-14 20:21:02

客戶沒有特別解釋用途 =.= 所以... 有信心的就來信吧, 我給你檔案算算看 :@

張維哲
2016-01-14 20:26:51

鈦合金

哩良
2016-01-14 20:31:47

15cm這麼大的準接還是乖乖用金屬切削一体成型做吧。

Hawke ChienSheng Liu
2016-01-14 21:19:01

就算用工業塑料也要用CNC來減法加工。RP的接面都是弱點。

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2016-01-14 22:51:11

Will nylon filament do ?

劉至倫
2016-01-14 23:28:15

我也覺得是鋁合金。或是鈦合金

陳志瑋
2016-01-15 08:57:09

PEEK? 不是耐酸鹼?

林祐德
2016-01-15 10:03:15

銅~勿用鉛加工,污染海洋生態~~ https://www.google.com.tw/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s......

鄭政浤
2016-01-15 16:52:13


原文網址 林似諭
2016-01-14 17:58:08

列印時在回抽到上一層時都會刮到成品,是改參數上的“回抽速度“還是“列印速度“,有請大師們指點迷律....

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 18:03:06

z-hop


原文網址 陳佳卿
2016-01-14 14:38:26

一年前的作品~~
貓奴X無印良品鐘


原文網址 陳炳
2016-01-14 11:25:46

求助!!之前刮玻璃的問題原來是噴嘴頭微鬆造成偵測不準,換了噴嘴鎖緊之後,現在的問題是按下 Auto Level 後大概只降到一半的高度就開始跳舞了!

我爬文說自動校正完全是靠噴頭的微動開關鬆緊,我反覆按壓確認過螺絲和微動開關的距離是沒問題的了。

也查到說要確認上蓋有沒有鎖緊怕是電線拉到上蓋,這我也都確認鎖緊了。

不管我怎麼確認,為何噴頭總是降到一半就開始偵測了,拜託各位了?

Charlie Ting
2016-01-14 11:27:02

轉太緊?
trial and error 囉

張維哲
2016-01-14 13:02:22

有可能是出乎意料的問題。檢查看看下圖參數

張維哲
2016-01-14 13:33:03

看你的機台應該是2.0的機子 韌體應該是刷成了ATOM 2.0.4b升級韌體

陳炳
2016-01-14 13:33:39

對我刷了~你好厲害

張維哲
2016-01-14 13:35:13

要刷 "ATOM 2.0.4 韌體 (ATOM 2代專用韌體)" 1.0的機子 LCD跟步長不同

Charles Shih-Chi
2016-01-14 21:24:27

我的狀況是管線被桿子拉到


原文網址 Dice Cheng
2016-01-14 10:54:15

雖然無論切片和上色技巧都很幼嫩,但能夠造到這地步,自己已經很滿意了 :) 當然下次希望更好

陳明谷
2016-01-14 11:37:31

外面罩子好有質感 請問哪裡有賣啊??


原文網址 黃應隆
2016-01-14 10:19:32

謝謝!


 

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