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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:24:03

想問一下各位高手
如果想印燈罩但形狀比較複雜
開hallow或vase某些斜面都會塌

是不是調多些loop牆厚厚一點可以解決?
或是可以調內部有支撐嗎?

陳奕丞
2016-01-13 19:25:17

應該附個圖或檔案,別人比較容易判斷~

Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:27:44

其實之前也問過,但還沒解決 ?

Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:28:09

Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:28:43

李穆
2016-01-13 19:30:57

你講的都是解法,不過看你的圖似乎沒有開hollow模式啊

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 19:37:14

hollow 就不會塌了

曾荐宏
2016-01-13 19:40:36

借問一下hollow和vase兩個模式的不同點在哪邊?為什麼開hollow就不會塌了,不是空心嗎?

Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:41:30

可能切片時出現問題,我調到了hallow但切片上沒有分別
然且開了支撐但有些凌空的部位沒有出現支撐

我回家後再試試,謝謝各位

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 19:42:33

你的厚度設太薄,所以 hollow 的效果沒出來。
thickness < loops * extrusion width

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 19:45:28

hollow 是除了 loops 之外,會看你的 thickness 自動把厚度補足; vase 就不會,它只跑 loops, 不會補厚度。

Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:47:03

厚度有沒有說最少多少比較安全呢?

曾荐宏
2016-01-13 19:47:26

Charlie Ting 太感謝了,又多懂了一點內容!!!

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 19:51:12

看物件,以薄殼的東西來說,表面要好看,loops 至少2~3圈以上。但補厚度時是像毛邊的東西,其實不好看,所以我可能會跑到5圈。5圈的情況下最厚就2mm了,所以為了厚度一致,就會設2mm。

這個是看自己對作品的效果的評估來作決定。

Timy Fat
2016-01-13 19:55:54

謝謝!
但不太明白什麼是補厚度呢

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 19:57:11

你去切一下圖,看路徑就知道他怎麼補厚度了

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 20:09:27

Vase應該還有個特點是沒頂蓋吧

曾荐宏
2016-01-13 20:10:00

Clarence Lee 喔喔,筆記中....


原文網址 林似諭
2016-01-13 19:04:56

平台夾持搞定……

林似諭
2016-01-13 19:45:37

其實是為了讓它拆缷、校正更方便

林似諭
2016-01-13 19:46:55

原先的夾具太難用了…


原文網址 陳俊諺
2016-01-13 17:23:24

大家好~
小弟是最近才開始摸3D列印的初新手
有個問題想請教...
一開始嘗試列印的檔案是ATOM給的測試檔
這些印都沒問題
但是將Thingiverse上所想要的stl檔載下來後
利用KISSLicer轉為gcode後
機器沒辦法列印...
請問這個中間哪裡出了問題...?

Charlie Ting
2016-01-13 18:00:37

訊息太少,無法判定

陳俊諺
2016-01-13 18:14:32

我在研究一下,看能不能解決或是給出更正確的問題 ><


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 16:43:29

Hey Guys,

I'm still having one problem with my printer and cura...
Had the problem that the printer was scratching my prints hard when he was traveling. The solution for that was to set the acceleration to 500 - he still scratches them, but not as loud as before. You can still see marks on top layers when he starts filling in the middle, finishes it to the right and then travels back to the middle and starts filling to the left.
Problem is: With smaller parts, he still tears them off the printbed when printing them.
I use Cura, which is my favorite printing program so far...
I don't know if this is something in the Gcode or if this depends on Z-Offset, trying to play with Z-Offset gave me no results, only bad first layers.
I'm thankful for every advice :)

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 16:46:45

not z-offset, it's always z-lift from my opinion...
But how cura use z-lift, it's need to dig in gcode …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:00:40

http://www.file-upload.net/....../apple_cable_savers......
Apple Cable Savers from Thingiverse.
On the bigger one, one side started ripping off, still sticking with a little part. and when he starts printing that spring.. Everything is lost :S

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:08:13

From Gcode
It did Z hop 0.1mm
but since layer 481 …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:14:33

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:17:06

I think it's fixed since Version: 15.04.03
but I don't recommend to use this since 15.04.xx is not stable enough for not ultimaker from my experience.
But maybe I would try the 15.04.4, and see if I can get a stable version for ATOM setting.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:39:21

My Version is 15.04.3
The rip-Off took place on layer ~120. well, more around that one.
I was wondering, should I choose a higher Z-Hop Value?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:41:11

the butg report seens you might need to turn off something about combine?

for the layer 120 rip off, it might not really related to the Z hop? (but still worth to try higher) …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 17:52:05

well, Fans are working on 100%, printing at 195°. How should I prevent that warping? Printing Brim? Or rather lower temperature?

About that combine thing: In Expert settings, lower right. There are two options, Combine everything (Type A) and (Type B), I got Type A selected.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-13 17:57:35

print it slower, maybe 20mm/s max, lower traveling speed to 80 mm/s

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-13 18:10:09

Lowering travel speed gives much more ooze & Strings at 7mm / 100mm/s
Print Speed is possible :)

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 01:56:45

Okay will update that tomorrow.What about that combine Thing with type A?

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 08:12:41

Try to turn it off

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 18:24:12

Hey Clarence,
Turned the Combine thing off with no real result. Adjusted Z-Hop Value to 0.25mm, still got a ripped off part on a figure...
Within the rest of the week I try other slicers, as I know that Kisslicer did no ripping and scratching at all but gave me baaad print results in case of stringing etc. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 19:15:32

hmm from bug tracker it says it's fixed.
anyway, I would try to slice & check gcode anyway.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-14 19:44:49

Joschka Friedl should be this, try off or No skin

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 19:46:34

Will try that one. Working on craftware now and will test that on cura too

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-14 20:07:19

Looking good so far.
But I recognized that he does a "blob" sound like filament being too hot on every layer. And it seems like on those places, tiny little holes are created because of that. Lowered temperature down to 180° now. seems like its okay now... :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 18:41:11

Hi Clarence Lee ,
After turning Type A off, Selecting No Skin and adjusting Z-Hop to 2.5mm, he now prints without ripping and muuuuch less scratching. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-15 18:42:20

blobbing sound should be filament quality issue.
Type A might not related to the scratching issue.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 21:35:46

The scratching issue was related to The ripping off issue... That one is clear. Parts with Little bed-connection ripped off even with large brim. The effector ripped it out of The brim.Will tell The seller about that blobbing Problem. Here is a picture. Still a large stringing Problem :D

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-15 23:11:13

Yep. Gonna test some retraction objects This weekend. Then, finally... I should have everything under Control


原文網址 戴光宏
2016-01-13 14:20:01

局部印出來了 之後要修模與組裝

Lawrence Lee
2016-01-14 12:12:33

建議使用膚色 XD

Odinson Thor
2016-01-14 12:18:36

XD

戴光宏
2016-01-15 01:14:56

反正都要上漆的


原文網址 Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2016-01-13 13:14:37

Looks like Apple is getting into 3D printer too... But you will be surprise as how different from others.
Who knows that they may even call it the... "3D iPrinter". LoL!!!

翻譯年糕


原文網址 施正偉
2016-01-13 10:53:33

在 CES 上 3D 列印技術的服裝、珠寶、飾品⋯⋯


原文網址 Tom Yip
2016-01-13 10:22:27

想支持一下 enable ,發現一個分支設計不錯
影片 -- https://youtu.be/369PX9LzUPs?t=3m15s
網站 -- http://www.teamunlimbited.org/the-unlimbited-arm/

但有 2 件太大
有大大可以幫忙分拆嗎?
Forearm 和 Cuff 希望可以放大 130% 後可在小平台 (直徑180mm) 打印嗎

Autodesk Fusion 360 Source Files:
http://www.teamunlimbited.org/s/Team-Unlimbited-Gauntlet-V4…

STL File:
http://www.teamunlimbited.org/s/The-UnLimbited-Arm-STL-File…


原文網址 王榮達
2016-01-13 01:57:19


原文網址 Charlie Ting
2016-01-12 23:29:39

[Gladiator]

最近裝了 netflix 影片看爽爽,看完 Spartacus 後,對羅馬時期的東西感到有趣,就印了這個頭盔。

不過發現功力變差了~~~表面不算很好。
只好安慰自己,把問題推給當初同好提供的這捲不太好印的線料了~~~

主要的觀察是,先捅過噴頭後,出料不會那麼容易塞。但料性不太優,原因在於溫度太低容易卡,溫度太高就水水的,回抽也收不乾淨,然後容易流口水,所以出料的起點容易有過多的料。而這個區間大概10~20度之間。

今天這種天氣,大概用200~220印。200的時候列印面會顯得不紮實,感覺線料溫度還不夠,220時卻又太水。低於200就有點危險。所以整體來看,這捲線的理想溫度區間很窄。

列印速度35mm/s。

Odinson Thor
2016-01-12 23:31:21

是那捲嗎? 我這裡還有2捲白的 XD

Noki Noki
2016-01-13 11:12:50

這東西看來已經很好了

Vincent LM Yeh
2016-01-20 23:16:10

請問Ting大有開支撐嗎?我拆完支撐表面都還有餘料(藍),要好看就要再花時間用砂紙或工具修整(白)。

Vincent LM Yeh
2016-01-20 23:16:47

這是我開支撐的樣子

Charlie Ting
2016-01-20 23:28:21

有開一點,但沒那麼多。尖尖那段沒支撐。我的支撐角度很接近水平的才有。

Vincent LM Yeh
2016-01-20 23:31:31

那可能超過80度了

Vincent LM Yeh
2016-01-21 09:46:25

好多了!不過眼眶四周還是免不了受到支撐影響平整度。


 

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