ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

Please test the heater + the capacitor with a multimeter and post the readings - then I can tell you which one is faulty

The heater registers 11.42 volts when heating, and 0 when not. I can't get the thermistor out of the nozzle so I can't measure that one.

I did scrape most of the dark residue off the bottom of the heat capacitor (how can this be called a cpacitor sinc e it is just a solid machined part?) and off the top surface of the nozzle, so that may help some.

I'm not sure what to do about the tiny piece of insulating tape that covered the wire connectors to the heater - that piece has no sticky stuff on it so I'm not sure if I'll be able to reattach it.

Edit: I managed to get the nozzle, heater, and heat capacitor reassembled OK. I was able to get the tiny piece of insulating tape sandwiched in between the heater and the nozzle, and hold it all together with the heat capacitor. I don't think I'll be disassembling these parts again. Fortunately the nozzle does heat up to 200 degrees as indicated on the printer LCD, so I think I've got that much working OK.

I called it heat ring. There is a wird in that ceramic Plate. In The assembly instructions i think its Said to assemble The Ring with contacts facing downwards. Did you check if The thermistor is in The middle of The hotend? Also do a PID calibration v ia pronterface or repetierhost.I found The solution for my "thin" extruded Parts in my prints in thr gcode. It simply didnt slice a whole Layer. Now I check every gcode before printing in repetierhost.

Yes, I did assemble the ring with contacts facing downward. I discovered that after I got the whole hot end reassembled the heating resistor got stuck to the top heat capacitor (the solid metal piece that screws on top of the heat resistor) so I had to position it with it's wires 180 degrees away from the wires from the thermistor.

Nevertheless I was able to get everything put back together and I am trying a long print right now. So far the first layer looks a bit thin, but after that things look pretty good.

Close but no cigar

After a little less than an hour of printing the nozzle jammed again. When I checked the printer the printhead was about 5 mm above the last printed layer and was extruding nothing. Plus, as has been the case for more than a week now, after such a jam I can neither feed nor retract filament manually.

Birk, I think Idan is asking about the "resistance" value of that ceramic heater and the thermistor, not the voltage value. To do so, you need to unplug their connectors from the board and measure the pins of their connector. Your heating voltage seem s correct, so the board should be ok. If you can print for a little less than an hour, the ceramic heater should be ok as well. I believe there should be some thermal compound between the heater and nozzle, and maybe you should apply some for better thermal transfer. I think you should check the thermistor resistance before you continue your work. I have a hunch that thermistor is faulty, it is a common issue after a period of time....

I always have them in my tool box....

Bato - if I understand correctly you are saying I should unplug the 2 thermistor leads from the motherboard and check the resistance between the 2 leads. I did that and the result was 123.3 which I think is just ohms and not kilo- or mega- ohms.

I tho ught the only purpose of the thermistor was to control the voltages sent to the heater. And since my LCD temperature readout is quite consistent at 195, which is my printing temperature, I figured the thermistor was OK.

But if it is bad can I just replace it with a new one? What are the specs for a replacement? And can I just pull it out of the hot end and put a new one in there?

Birk, if the thermistor is faulty, 195 steady does not mean it is true 195 steady, it might drop to like true 175 steady (Show 195 on the panel)....in this condition, your PID auto calibration will not perform correctly. I think ATOM use a 104GT thermistor, in room temperature(25), it should be 100K ohm. http://www.mouser.com/....../semitec%20usa...... ...

Brand new thermistor measurement

Aha - so it is KOhms - I should have seen that on my meter's dial. At any rate, 123.3 is not that far from your 109.24 so I wonder if the thermistor really is the cause of my problems.

At any rate, there are numerous sources for the 104GT here in the US, so I can certainly get a few of them without much trouble.

I am not sooo familiar with electricity, but isnt More resistance resulting in less power? Correct me if im wrong.Birk, was there any time when your Teflon tube in The hotend was melted? I had The Problem of some melted Teflon tube being stuck in The h otend chamber, resulting in prints which didnt extrude after a period of time. Only burning of The hotend brought me a clean nozzle. That is something that really annoys me about The atom hotend - why cant you just replace The nozzle? Why "Atom excluse full hotend"?

Joschka - yes to both. Higher resistance results in less power, but the real issue is what the Atom2 firmware does with the data it receives from the thermistor. As Bato Wang said, there is some control logic in there that does something, but we (nor mal folks) don't know exactly what that is.

Yes #2 is about the ptfe tube inside the print head. I did replace mine months ago because I discovered the tube had been burned at the bottom.

Maybe that was the first sign that my thermistor was going bad. I still have no conclusive data that points to that but I am suspecting it rather strongly since no other cause seems more likely.

About the Atom2 nozzle itself - the website says it is made from Cnc milled titanium, which if true would mean it is a costly piece and not easily replaced.

The thermistor resistance will change as the temperature changes....if you don't measure a 100k in a 25 degree room temperature, you should consider change a thermistor....it is really not the higher the better, it is the matter of precision......

Given the relatively low cost of thermistors that's probably worth a try. But can I simply pull out the existing thermistor and replace it with another? Other nozzle assembly instructions I've read say the thermistor needs to be surrounded with some h eat-proof material like Permatex RTV (gooey stuff used for exhaust manifold gaskets on internal combustion engines.)

My concern is what if I try to pull the existing thermistor out of the nozzle and it breaks - leaving most or part of it stuck where it is? Would I have to try to drill out the rest? Or will it just come out all in one piece?

It broke into 2 pieces on mine....you don't need RTV silicone to secure it, but you do need a ptfe tube or small enough tube to isolate the leads form short with the nozzle....

Good point about the ptfe tubing. I don't think I can get any that small here in the US. So I'll have to try to get the ones off the existing thermistor.

Yes, exactly what I did, don't forget to take the small tube off the old thermistor...

OK - I'll get several of them. I'll also see if I can get some of the small shrink-wrap tubing to make the connections neater than electrical tape.

Just one more question - what about ordering a replacement heating resistor? I'd like to have a backup in case I break the one I have - or in case it fails n it's own for some reason. Do you know what the specs for the heating resistor are?

it is Φ14*6.5*1.3mm, 2-3Ω, Voltage: 5-7V (Running @ 12V on ATOM), don't worry, I run it @ 24V...no problem at all.

the thermistor is not semitec 104gt-2 or 104nt-4(but it's usable)
Actually form shape using on ATOM2.0 is MF58 100K 3950(not sure about the actually brand)

Thanks Clarence - I switched my order to that one. ALso got insulating tubing & shrink-wrap.

for the theramic heater plate , after some search. I don't sure if it's easy to get from us or not.
http://www.innovacera.com/product/alumina-ceramic-heater

Yes - I can't find anything like that ceramic disk here in the US.

有使用 usb 連電腦？？

二了USB忘拔了

檢查線路..看有沒有短路斷路... 最慘就是異常輸入電壓到控制板燒掉了...

感謝，問題解決

氣動五金行

收到 感謝

看起來是舊版本的1.x的？
經過比較.. ATOM現在官方選的料相對耐用多...
之前我換pisco的也陣亡了...

這還真不好買

這個規格在彰化很難買到（雖然我不是用在atom），
後來乾脆網拍買。

麵皮！？～逃～

潤餅wwww

雙面膠

看到這個，我想那烤盤紙來試試XD

這真的很黏，但應該不耐熱吧

保鮮膜嗎？

這是什麼呢？

拉椅子

Costco賣的氣密保鮮膜吧

魏忠勇～～勇哥這台不錯

這個吧?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxQhOavBZ8U

沒錯、感覺蠻好用的

不會翹嗎

不會翹、而且不用塗口紅膠、天氣冷口紅膠似乎容易脫落

我用過油畫的保護漆，也推薦給大家用看看

楊智丞

印完一個物件後是不是要換一張膜?

小物件我連續使用好幾次、也請前輩能提供更好的方法分享

發現天氣冷口紅膠要選對牌子
天氣溫熱用黃色老牌子
天氣冷一層黃色老牌子再加一層3M口紅膠
效果挺好~~~

這是甚麼?

我是去美術行買的,一種畫完油畫後
會噴一層保護漆在畫上面保護畫作
我是買噴霧罐

噴霧式若有一層黏液，若要平整比較困難是吧?
還是這不是問題 ? ^_^ Thanks ~
噴一次就夠了?還是鏟除列印件後會撥離一些~

噴上去乾了會有一層帶黏性的薄膜,不用噴太多
然後把印件拿起來時,那層薄膜很好拿下來了
我是都噴一層

今天剛好到好市多

用這個還是會翹，不過比單用口紅膠好的原因是它還是持續用薄膜抓住物件，相較口紅膠翹曲就會脫離了（開始變滑塊，釀成噴頭撞物件車禍、炒米粉...）

我很好奇，保鮮膜是怎麼抓住平台的?

膜本身有點黏性

請問耐熱溫度是多少?

不知道幾度可是不會融

記得包裝紙有寫90度？

可以230度印ABS嗎?

Abs沒有料，這次買是實驗性質，反正不能用就拿回家當保鮮膜用....

黏不住XD

應該不會這麼慘...
為何要綁橡皮筋？

橡皮筋是發現噴頭會被管子拉動。請問J大，保鮮膜是黏的那面朝下嗎？

對呀 ~ 黏的朝下，
印完有黏性，若沒拆破掉，可以重複利用，
我是整片都把它的空氣擠掉貼平，多的裁掉，怕有其它意外
不過有機會我要再往保護漆試一下 ~ ^_^

真是一群實驗熱情高的3d大大、此膜是因為太座有在用、感覺塗口紅膠很麻煩、所以拿來試看看、覺得小物件很不錯、但我發現大物件底部溫變的曲翹此膜還是無法克服⋯大物件可能需要進保溫箱了⋯⋯

基本上，我還是覺得藍色3M膠帶比較穩定

切片時檢查過每層嗎

請問要怎麼檢查? 同一個Gcode檔案，第一次印是印沒多久整個平移，第二次印是快結束時突然就停止不動了。

換power或檢查有沒有線路接觸不良

我之前是噴頭的微動開關上多出的接腳沒剪，也發生過類似短路問題，剪完後就很正常了

驅動電流也許不夠

謝謝大家提供意見，懷疑是因為自己改了一個切換噴頭和雷射頭的switch，但沒用焊錫固定，導致偶發12V斷電，目前用焊錫固定好接線後，已經順利列印完一個檔案，之後再觀察看看。

Brim開下去！！
至少開個5mm

因為室溫降低造成的翹曲跟收縮
我是
Brim打開3mm …… 查看更多

我最近也出現同樣的問題~
印moai、招財貓，印過好幾十隻都沒問題，都同樣G-CODE
結果這兩天印都底層翹曲，然後印到一定高度就黏不住整個脫離~

Fan mm 設置 2-4mm