ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

差1mm ~

真心建議
要搭乘大眾交通工具把ATOM抱回家的人
第二天一定要準備小推車跟包裝用紙箱 …… 查看更多

手已酸 ~今天也搬了一下

價格不平民，將來必敗。賺太多無市場。

可惡～想要！

工作坊現在都還有名額！
由未來產房的專業講師教授組裝
不用擔心自己裝不好 …… 查看更多

Jing Wen Chen 李婉琳

就差最後一個啦！加油一下

還有5天！差一點，請大家揪一下～

可以信用卡無息分期！可開統編發票⋯

還差1位，預購至這星期天截止！再揪一下

官方賣場一直有人在購買，上次跟官方聯絡時，他們說會告知買家有課程方案。但怎麼沒什麼人捧場呢？加油，就差一個名額

狂賀！讚啦

我是144黨的耶XD

等MG！

補個圖

先收下了～
有機會來印

我也在等MG，不過有一堆山還沒處理

敲碗MG+1

1:100已經要先出了，但是不是MG

買來買去還是最喜歡MG的

鐵血預定做26集
MG應該明年中有機會

噴頭復職先快速印來玩玩XD

噴石頭漆比較快 還可以掩飾線條說

19分鐘也太快了吧？

很有趣的質感

確實是19 分, Cura 切出來的~ 看一集海賊王就印好了～ :-p

嘗試 0.05 層高，50分鐘印完，長鬍子了～

這個豪可愛 ❤️

最一開始認為是層厚太小加上風扇太強造成附著力不足
慢慢加到上面的數值但強度還是沒之前的好
之前到底怎麼印的呀.......

層高設低一點~0.2試試

同意二樓~~

我先試試看
但層厚太低不會造成層跟層之間咬合力不夠嗎?

不會啦

是GARMIN的座嗎？

讓SONY攝影機能裝上GARMIN的座

原料是同一家買的嗎?或是兩種顏色料出來的黏性不同?

我換了三家的料都是一樣的結果
應該是設定問題
(還在印

速度多少

喔喔喔 硬幫幫了！

層厚0.4 線寬0.4 ,理論上你層與層間只有一條線接觸到，這就是印支撐嘛！

有下載的人，重下喔，我改了一點點東西。

想請問一下，支稱架有辦法設定不用全程都打開嗎?(KISSlicer)這套應該沒辦法吧?

只可以設高度，設只到多高就不再開。

卡料失敗了，找時間重印

冰淇淋跟尾巴掉了

我是頭上的葉子不明顯，我想把葉子拿掉。

我支撐一拆，東西就掉了，葉子也是不明顯，因為那時候卡料了

我再改改，等等貼葉子拿的實體化STL版

更新了

大大你們層高都用多少在跑?

印大的就0.2，印小一點的0.15or0.1

設太高要印很久

印好了，在想要如何上色，唉

我只有鋼彈筆

結果，慘不忍睹，顏色會溢流，沿者列印的小溝流出去，是不是要先上補土之類的，我只有一瓶「Mr. WHITE SURF ACER 1000」，這瓶可以用嗎？

之前打磨噴漆結果

DC 12V 5~6A以上
不過可以看看還有沒有在保固內?

我個人改用類似這種

變壓器壞掉是整個不穩定還是燒熔？

http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1/

Yeah, already checked that one... My first layer is perfect (which wonders me because i have that Gap in the Center when manually lowering the effector via command) but then scratches on the printed layers...

I had a somewhat similar problem when trying to print an Eiffel Tower model. What was happening to me was the adjusting screw on the bottom of the hot end was hitting one of the legs when the printer moved from one leg to another.

I took a rather dras tic approach to fix this, but it has worked perfectly and I have never had to readjust the screw since then. What I did was to simply cut about 3 mm off the end of the screw and then readjust the setting as described in Clarence's post above.

What this did was raise the bottom level of the screw head slightly above the bottom of of the hot end, thus completely eliminating any interference between the hot end assembly and the part being printed.

Although this is a good idea, my screw is a level above the hotend. It can't scratch anything...Thing is - with kisslicer i had no scratching problems but worse print result (stringing etc.) while cura provides perfect print results with print scratching via hotend :(

Can you post some photos?

TZ - can who take photos of what?

I mean he can take some photos at the print, sometimes I have this problem too. The print's section is rough, and I can hear printing head scratching the print.

Did you check the z lift setting in cura?

請問他是說列印玻璃面歪斜的問題嗎?
若是的話我也正面臨中間正，但左上方較高的狀況，印大面積物件會有問題 ~
(Google translate ,Sorry -_- ")
Does he mean to printer's glass surface skew problem?
If so my printer the middle positive is perfect, but top left is higher, there will be problems printing large objects -

他的問題是噴頭會刮列印品卻不會刮平台

蘇子敬 原來是這樣，
看來應該照張噴頭照來看看~

Need take some nozzle photos

Z-Hop or Z-Lift on Retraction is on 0.15, like it is advised in the Cura Settings from Atom Webpage. I played around with this one, even played with the Z-Offset in G-Code - with no results. I found the "Retract while Combing" Plugin in the web for Cura, but with this one, I get more stringing :/

I can make some pictures of a print tomorrow! :) On most "scratches" you can see the nozzle taking or even scrubbing away a little bit of the print. While this doesn't make any difference in Infill sections of sturdy objects, it ruins my whole print when I print figures.

I love the translation option here. Translator says: "His problem is Spray head shave his print does not shave platform" - kind of hilarious :D
Problem is in short terms:
Hot-End does >NOT< touch / scratch my printbed.
BUT
Hot-End DOES touch / scratch my printed part while changing position being in retraction "mode". This results in tearing figures apart or other problems.

z-hop & z offset are no any relations, increase your z-hop & check your retraction speed

Sometime if I print too fast, the section will become very rough, then hot-end will scratch the print.
So I suggest you can print slowly.

Printing at recommended 30mm/s, z-hop was tested up to 0.35 (which seems to have been a little Bit better but also resulted in fine stringing)

Retraction speed is somewhat between 70 & 100

Btw thanks vor your super and fast support guys ?

Setting z-lift will solve this problem.

Thanks charlie. But as stated, this results in fine stringing. :/ had that Problem in kisslicer and couldn't find a solution..

Okay, tested some things again with nearly zero results...
I think it doesn't depend on z-lift because it seems to scratch my prints when moving without retraction.
Rising z-lift results in stringing but doesn't solve the Problem. Standard cura settin g was 0.15mm i think, this works fine in case of stringing (nearly zero strings)
Thing is: He doesnt scratch on every move, so i think it has something to so with calibrations, to be exact z-leveling. My z-offset works best on 4,5-5mm, it doesn't scratch my printbed and a sheet of paper fits fine.
If I activate "retraction on every move" I can't leave my printer alone because at any time the filament could get stuck in The print head resulting in The printer moving on without extruding filament...
I'm really desperate now...

3 more things -
1. the printer starts Scratching on The First layer but never scratches on last layer.
2. Printed some bridges today with 190 degree celsius resulting in The First bridge layer hanging a little Bit. Any ideas here?
3. Measuring a 10x10mm cube results in 10.12 x 10.15 prints... I'm unsure what to do now. Changing the value mentioned in The manual results in The Printer trying to auto-calibrate outside the printbed... :/

I'm happy about every hint and help ^^

What are your rectract speed and length?
Did you enable the cooling fan?
Check https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/new-index-eng

Those values are from the atom webpage, the cura settings file. 10mm retract at 100 speed it was.
And cooling fans start after first layer with full speed at 3mm height

Did you try the z-lift plugin of Cura?
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_zLift

Reduce retract length to 5 for a start point

Hey Roy, thanks for that guess. Only question: As my printer scratches the print on movements without extruding, but not retracting and z-lifting, should I also disable the retraction limitation (think its the one which says that it should only retract on movements which are longer than XXmm in distance)?

I was wondering this morning... as my printer has 0.XX Distance Z-Offset to the printbed while printing first layer, it seems like he has nearly zero distance to the following layers. Increasing Z-Offsets results in a very bad first layer.. So it seems like I need a plugin (or a hint) where to find the option that he "keeps" the Z-Offset from the start.. :/
Tried printing some parts yesterday and of course the nozzle broke them off the printbed after 3 hours of printing because of that scratching. :(

Interesting thing btw: My printer only oozes in sleep-mode when a layer is printed shorter than 10 secs or so. I always thought this is normal.

Will test that one this evening, hoping that it doesn't result in stringing.

Maybe you can find solution here,
https://ultimaker.com/....../16054-ultimaker-2-nozzle......

yup, found that one too. Thing is: You cant see the scratches in the bottom layer from the outside. Only from inside.
Downloaded that plugin and tested it - resulting in Stringing :( I'd have to make some more tests with that plugin to finally say if i t helps or not.

For me, after a long and furious search, it seems like the distance of the nozzle reduces within the bottom layer, as it doesn't scratch the printbed, but afterwards scratches the print itself..

Also found one hint on "convex" and "concav" printbeds - in theory.
I wouldn't say that the printbed is "convex" for the printer, if this was the case, it would also scratch the printbed, wouldn't it?

Thank you all again for your support guys :)

You can try the new firmware,
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/

What is the release date for this firmware?

Is it OK to use for all Atom2's?

Are there any changes to the source code needed before downloading to Atom2 motherboard?

Release Date is today. Wow, hoping for some super results from that one :)
To the "Changes to the source code" - I've seen just now that in the configuration.h the DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD Value is modified
# define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD (226.91 * (50.345 / 50. 0))

Testing new Firmware right now. The Z-Offset function is neat! Nice Job Atom team.
Although.. It doesnt solve my problem whilst it brings me to a new point: Tryed printing a part via Repetierhost and via Kisslicer. Can you guess it? No scratching of the print! Gnah! So it definitely is something in the Cura settings! Thing is.. Cura delivers the best print results.. :/

Ahh.. Finally got to make a vid where you can hear the scratch really good..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdIpY3u570M&feature=youtu.be
The Cura Settings can be found in the description!

I think it's still too fast.
Do you ever use the radial button to slow down for comparison?

Yep. Slowed it down to 80 and 70%... Still scratching. And its "only" 30mm/s? Thought this already is pretty slow? :o

Doin some test prints on the flow right now which seems to has some effect... Printin three cubes with Flow Rates from 95 to 100. Somewhere between this should be a good option... Hopefully.

The video you post is not like 30mm

Huh.. Well in Cura I sliced it with 30mm/s, as it is a 10x10x10mm cube, I think it just looks like its faster? But of course I could try slower.

I remember the voltage will change motor's speed.

"Measuring And Adjusting Voltage of A DRV8825 Chip"

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/mechanical-problems-1/

Input: 230V - Output: 12V
So the Printer gets the normal 12V - should be the same as yours?

What wonders me - kisslicer and Repetier didn't have those scratching problems. How come that cura has them?

okay will check this one tomorrow, get the better device from work.
But sadly this doesnt solve my cura-scratching problem :'(

Whew. With my new trick I get to print the part at least. Had to print some think brims with cubes around it so it stacks to bed besides the scratching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v5mMXwrEKo&feature=youtu.be
Here is another Video, 50% Speed, at t he end you hear loud scratchings.. :(

http://img4web.com/i/EPXSJT.jpg
And this is the picture of the four fails.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242 its the Arm from this little robot friend. Thought it'd be one of the hardest part so print it first before you have to trash the rest because the arms wont work :D

oh, that is travel noise. try to change travel speed from 150 to 30

So... If I change travel speed from 150 to 30 it should disappear? Just woke up. Can test it this evening (and now i cant wait to test it XD)

I always use same speed (print,travel,bottom,top,infill...)
To prevent sudden movement

Okay I really hope this will solve my problem *-*
I will report this evening :)

Get into LCD menu : Control---->Motion---->Accel.---->500

my atom 2.0's Accel is 9000!

Okay, reduced Print Speed to 30mm/s. Buuut this results in stringing, although scratching is HEAVY reduced. Thanks for that one!
Should I set retraction back to 10mm on 100mm/s?

Have to add - dunno if it was like this before - sometimes I hear a cracking sound, sounding like PLA cracking. I cannot localize it whether it comes from the print getting lose of the bed - or just some of the build cracks because of the long print, a nd the temperature (heating & cooling cycle). Any idea here?
Printing Fillenium Malcon from Thingiverse right now at 0.6 scale. Will post a picture when its done in 2 hours. Where we come to next question. ~20 hours of printing for a 0.1mm model with 18cm height is normal, right?

Edit: Okay. Maybe he's just moving through the strings he produces and they crack because of the force. Only one possibility. Although I'm pretty scared of the print getting ripped of the print bed ;_;

Sooo got it right here.
Still on Printer: http://img4web.com/i/PP233.jpg
Huge Stringing between the last layers, sadly. Also the satellite, the feet and the cockpit had MUCH stringing - With 150mm/s Travel Speed I had nearly none. But - good thing - no ripping off, nearly zero "scratching" or anything else. :)
Following pictures were made >after< I cut off most of the strings.
Detailed Satellite: http://img4web.com/i/GPJPED.jpg
Detailed Cockpit: http://img4web.com/i/VDHT8A.jpg
Standing Feet: http://img4web.com/i/EZYNF.jpg
Again Standing Feet: http://img4web.com/i/4UMFHL.jpg

The ship is around 11,5cm tall, Print finished after 6:37h. Cura told me something about "10 hours". But this is kind off the normal speed, right? With 0.1mm layer height of course.

Thanks for everything guys! You're awesome!

Today someone told me the printer should get a "much better print for that amount of money it costs" Had me a little Bit worried. What do You guys think?Also: Die anyone of You calibrated the tower home offsets?

Did he show you the real case for comparison? Or he just tell you by "feeling"?

He told me from what he knows of 3D printing. ^^" I Think one of the things I have to learn more about is slicing and the right options configured for the printer. The printer itselfs seems pretty.. stable at this moment.

自己改gcode開頭...
z offset請改用別的可自訂z offset的韌體或先前也都討論過G29 Z+0.x 存起來替代也是可以的
https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/permalink/1647126092192346/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D

https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/permalink/1614235402148082/

基本上正式是沒有，測試版才有Z－OFFSET，目前不太好找那個測試版而且要修改一些參數才能用，所以自己寫個簡單G－CODE比較快

了解了 謝謝

抱歉我搞錯了，CURA測試版也是沒有Z-offset

This is my GCode header from the Craftware slicer:

G28 ;Home
;G29 Z+0.525 ;auto level

Notice that I have the G29 command commented out. That is because, after performing several experiments with different values, I found that Z+0.525 works well for my printer.

As Clarence has mentioned here several times, the results of the G29 command are stored in the motherboard's EEPROM chip. So there is no need to keep updating it after you have established the proper setting.