ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

Birk Binnard Slic3r got a very nice feature called Spiral Vase. It prints in one endless loop. I am making a huge seeling lamp in sections and the single loop option is very nice. Maybe it is good for more loops too? Have you tried Slic3r?

You can design the vase in solid, and use the vase option in slicer. ;p

True, but it leaves a mark along the side. Slic3r's Spiral Vase option prints in one kontinuet motion. It just looks better.

Andre - I looked at every available slicer before I got the Atom2. I knew the slicing program was going to be the key to making good parts, so I wanted to be ready when I got the printer.

When I got the Atom2 (about a month ago) I had all the slicer s on my computer, but had settled on Craftware for visualization and Repetier Host for actual slicing. By that time I had created many STL models and sliced all of them with all the slicers. It was clear to me that Craftware was by far the best at visualizing the GCode results, but it generated strange results on many of my models that Repetier did not. So I started off with Repetier and it's internal use of Slic3r.

It became clear to me very quickly that I had a lot to learn about all the parameters available in any slicing program, so when I saw that Kisslicer was the standard used by the Atom2 team I switched to that. It took me about a week of printing lots of bad parts to get all the parameters squared away. So at that point I settled on Kisslicer & Craftware - which was still making strange GCodes from my STL files.

With the latest version of Craftware they seem to have fixed the problems I was experiencing and, except for the problems I mentioned above (which I think are minor) it seems to work fine. So that's why I am using it instead of Kisslicer now.

I did not know that Slic3r had a spiral vase option; thanks for letting me know about that. I willl definitely check it out.

I am switching between slicer, too. Cura is easy & sometimes good result. I am familar with kisslicer since I use it alot. Craftware / Slic3r, sometimes, but not familiar enough yet.

Does anyone how it is going with Atom's own slicer?

Is Atom making a slicer? That's a major task and I'd be surprised if there would be sufficient resources to do both hardware and software. But it is an interesting thought.

Andre - I tried the current version of Slic3R - from inside Repetier Host. I saw the Vase option and turned it on. But the slicing did not come out any different - there were regular layers comprised of multiple concentric loops, jut like a regular sli cer.

Furthermore, the tool path showed a lot of cross-perimeter moves that seemed to serve no purpose. Plus they would eat up a lot of time.

I'll admit the problem may be the type of models I build. They have an inside and an outside surface with space in between. I do this to make them strong enough for actual use. Depending on the size of the model Craftware fills this space with infill material or sometimes just an extra loop or 2.

It might be that the Vase option only works for single layer shells, and that's not what I do. So I'm h oping the Craftware guys will take note of the message I posted on the Craftware forum and move it up their priority list.

What model program du you use? Try send me a few models in wire format saved as either .stp or .iges - then I will check them out. I can also send you some screen dumps of my settings inside Slic3r if you'd like.

I use Rhino and Grasshopper, which is a parametric modeling front end (sort of) for Rhino. What happens is Grasshopper generates geometry in Rhino, then Rhino saves the geometry as an STL file (or one of any other number of formats.) I think I can sav e in IGES format.

Rhino uses NURBS surfaces moslty, but also will do meshes, ruled, and lofted surfaces, I've really only saved thiings as STL, but I'll get you a ling to some IGES files in a few minutes.

Andre: here is a link to 2 IGS files. I saved them in "standard" IGES format (whatever that is) - but there are about 20 different options I have for IGES files - things like Solidoworks and other programs like that.

You will find that the models are small. That's because I messed up with my units when I first started. I'm in the process of straightening that out now. What I do is just upscale the models to a height of 10 - 20 cm or so (actually 100 - 200 mm) and then slice that.

Birk Binnard please send me the link. default iges is fine. Native Rhino format is fine too. The important thing is that I get your stuff in nurbs. You can also send me the stl file too if you feel like.

Andre - sorry about that - I posted the link last night but for some reason the posting never made it. Here is the link:

http://1drv.ms/1HqeEZg

There are 2 IGES files and 2 3dm files - 1 IGES and 1 3dm for each of 2 different parts.

I looked at your iges and it seems there are issues with more than one surface where there should be only one. Also some of the surface normals turned in side out. I fixed it and I Also made another version for the fun of it.

https://drive.google.com/folderview......

Thanks Andre - I appreciate your help. I am aware of some of the problems Rhino has with improperly configured models. I've learned a lot about naked edges etc. and how to join dis-jointed surfaces. But I still have a ways to go before I will be able to make completely closed models.

I've tried various ways to fix the models but have not yet found any method that works reliably for the different types of models I have. They all work OK some of the time, but also fail in different ways other times. So I'm still working on that issue.

I did have good luck with changing one of Craftware's parameters. The photo below shows a part I just took off the printer. Not the the seam is far less noticeable. That's because I specified North as the direction for Source Direction; apparently this causes all the loop start points to line up vertically.

There is another value called Spinning that I will try next. I have no idea what this actually does however.

單看模型的話，上面中空的部分冷卻的時間不太足，雖然你將top speed調到15mm/s, 可是那項參數應該是印到最頂層時才有用，我想你outer shell speed跟30 inner shell speed60差距比較大，最好都調差不多而且低於30再印小物件會比較好喔

感謝~馬上來試

Minimal layer time加長一點看看...但有時候太慢也是個問題...
或是一次打十個...誤..兩個也行啦

I've looked at MeshMixer twice before and it seemed to me like it was designed more for artistic purposes than anything else. It looks like it would be great for someone who wants to make models of animals or other organic shapes where specific dimensi ons aren't nearly as critical as the overall look of the model.

Since I have no artistic talent at all it was not useful for me, but I can see how it would be perfect for someone like a sculptor or, as we call them here in Los Angeles, a creature creator.

I was intrigued by your comment that "It also fixes anything you ask it to." Does that mean it fixes problems like naked edges? I've yet to find a really efficient way to do that.

Yes it fixes pretty much anything you throw at it. Plus the support is quite awesome. Try and put angle treshold to 8 degrees and add tre ground supports to all high structures. For some objects this works like nothing else. I tryed it with high speed 2 layer prints at 0.2 mm for some toys for my boys. This dinosaur took only 5 hours to finish. Actually Im quite impressed!

Well it seems to fix most things, but sometimes it adds an extra layer thickness. If you use it you should always check dimensions afterwards.

Possible solution:
1.use a much bigger mouse ear
2. consider to turn off the M106 controllered cooling fan(set a very high fan z on kisslicer) since it's a large object. Should be fine without cooling. …… 查看更多

Simple
De l'abs melanger a de l'acétone pour obtenir un jus.
En suite prendre un chiffon et en mettre sur le plateau. …… 查看更多

Ludovic: merci beaucoup!

De rien
Comment as tu acheté une atom et ou.
J'aimerais en acheter une une. …… 查看更多

Ludovic: I am in the US and was included in the Atom2 "Early Adopter" program. That means I was able to get an Atom2 before they became available for order in the US. People in Taiwan and (I think) in Japan can get Atom2 now, but not anyone else.

I …… 查看更多

Birk - perhaps try applying a thicker layer of gluestick, different gluestick brand or a stronger one. Also try waiting a bit for the gluestick to "dry" first

I can assure both english manuals will be much more improved in terms of translation. (The draft version you received was quite literally a draft) Extra details from suggestions will be added. Thank you …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard here is a link on the print bed adhesion issues. http://reprap.org/wiki/Bed_material
The fool proof solution if everything else fails I found to be brown paper packaging tape with UHU gluestick on top. I us this solution on very large objects with corners. I never fails! Oh, and no need for heated bed.

Thanks Andre - I've been doing some reading on the subject myself ,and the general consensus seems to be that 3M blue painter's tape on a cold bed works about as well as anything. The reason given is that there is wax (or something) in the tape that m …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard try and send my your g-code for the heart box that troubles you and I will test it with my setup.

Large area object test:
http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/62187225

Clarence - yes, the Geckotek test #4 at about 45:00 is exactly what I am talking about. What did you do to solve this?

Andre - thanks for your help with this.Here is the link to download the box GCode. It includes mouse ears twice the size of those shown on the previous photo.

http://1drv.ms/1S1tuIN …… 查看更多

I think previous few suggestion I post ed, each of them is a possible solution. Since almost all I tested before and proved works.
Geckotek plate is a special plate design by geckotek3d.com for PLA without glue & heatbed. I just get it about a week. St …… 查看更多

This corner might be a little not flat enough.
If it's not geckotek plate. another tips I never tried but heard it works is use super glue on the corner during printing.
I printed square box about 10x10cm before a few times. It's really hard to fight with at least one corner might warp. Sometimes I still thinking if it's round corner might be helpful?

Has anyone tried kisslicer's brim with the mouse ears?

問問 Nobu Hou ?

希望他能解答!!

物件在kisslicer裡頭可以調整位置喔。很少用，但有用過，好像是x offset y offset ,等回家開電腦看。

我來了，在rhino匯出時，選取該物件，在存檔標籤那邊按滑鼠右鍵，匯出該物體，用kisslicer打開時即可置中！另外此圖的右邊拉BAR的是平移的方式，按下center是至於kiss中央！

太感謝你了!!!!謝謝 我知道了

1.x代

好奇的是~怎會出現在Intel店

當肯帶去的吧?

開幕那天就看到在那邊了

剛剛去看了~站在旁邊的解說小姐一點都不懂3D列印一問三不知。雖然他是要展示ACER新發表臉部3D掃描筆電和強調kisslicer在筆電跑檔不當機。除此之外其他都.......(謝謝光臨)

潮與虎！！！！

魔力小馬

讚歐！知道魔力小馬的應該有30以上了歐！說潮與虎應該比較年輕！

難怪好面熟～!

最近同事在重溫這部漫畫！搞一隻獸矛放辦公室嚇嚇他！哈哈哈！再找個畜牲扮字伏就完美啦！

老媽也來比劃比劃！

請問這支材料會用多少。

大約600克吧,密度百分之五

為啥是蝴蝶機
結…

因為是亮點！觀察入微！佩服佩服！

那紅布是重點耶~功能強大
話說我當年也是看魔力寶貝…可是我還算年輕呀

推 魔力寶貝XDD

潮與虎