ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

沒失步，外觀沒問題。封頂票亮可以試試加快10%。速度加快問度也要跟著調高

So ~~ ~ Thanks ~ ~

How about adjust the metal plate and the fan position?

Clarence is correct - I had the same problem and fixed it by slightly adjusting the connections between the cover and the two side-blowing fans.

it looks like that the side-blowing fans not installed correctly

I installed the side-blowing fans with their blades facing towards extruder, not away from it like the above photo shows.

Does it matter, as long as the airflow opening is pointed down, towards the extruded filament?

if side-blowing fans towards extruder, it will inhale the air from the extruder, i think it will help nozzle throat temperature control, but not good for lower the temperature filament.(the source air temperature is higher then facing outside)

You are correct - I did install the fans backwards. So far I have not noticed any problems resulting from that so I will leave them alone for now. TIme will tell if I need to reverse them.

I think it depends, if it's too cold. Then reverse direction might be a good choice.

Yes. I'm in Sunny Southern California - it never gets cold here.

The Ball Screws had some oil?

Birk Binnard to start with I also faced the fans inwards towards the nozzle. I printed this way for about 50 hours. Then I wanted to turn them, but discovered that the bottom heat shield was bend the wrong way. I bend it out side in with a pair of pliers and re-installed everything according to manual. No dobt the colder air from outside cools better.
If you do need less cooling then simply set this in KISSLICER.

Thanks Birk, I will try it out.

What is your retract speed? Btw, try to slice by newest cura. It's optimized to less retract.

I think this shows retract speed = 120 mm/sec

I haven't looked at Cura in a while, but I'll check it out again. Thanks.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/1605464206358535/
did you use this ?

Not yet but I will print it out first thing in the morning

Birk Binnard I had a somewhat similar problem when I unchecked d-string and wipe under Style. It behaved like it picked out a new starting point for each new layer. Very dtrange. The strings mucy thinner though. Strange!

It's normal if you don't enable destring ;p
BTW the starting point is control by Seam hiding options.
check the "jitter"

Thanks Andre - somehow my destring & wipe boxes got unchecked. So I was able to print 2 copies of the quick_connector_spacer with no problems. I'm running another of my goblet shapes now and so far so good.

I did run the connector STL file through the Microsoft/Netfabb Repair Service and it got a lot smaller. I'll upload it in a separate posting because this only accepts photos.

Hi Birk Binnard , we are compiling a more comprehensive ATOM manual, and I would like to use these photos of the strings as an example. If you don't mind, would you be able to send us the full resolution files of these two photos? Thanks! (email is utypedesign@gmail.com)

Unfortunately I no longer have the full-size images. I thought the Facebook software saved the actual images as uploaded so I deleted them from my phone. They never made it into Google's backup either - I looked.

But you can easily reproduce this by simply printing a hollow round object with all the de-string settings set to 0.

That's alright, thanks anyway!

Hey Andrew - I just found the photos you asked for - they got saved in my deleted email folder. So I am emailing them to you now.

Thanks! Very much appreciated

Birk Binnard I had this problem a lot a few years ago. The trick is to newer let go of the fillament. Always keep the strain tight and NEWER EVER let it "spring in". Fillament from the factory are almost always spooled on tight. However I like your re-spooling idea.

Ive had this problem before as well. I believe it has a chance of occurring whenever you let go of the filament like when you open up a new one or you switch around spools and the filament kind of drops a little like a slinky and you quickly just bunch it back up on the spool, then the winding order gets messed up as it may overlap or underlap each other. André's reasoning when it springs back is also a cause.

I would tend to believe the factory would wind the spools correctly. But perhaps the mistake might occur on the last step when they cut the filament and insert it into the hole of the spool wall

Actually this might be a problem with the spool placed flat on top. It looks nice, but the filament have a higher risk of "falling" down, overlap and lock itself.

Yes - that's why I made the horizontal spool arm holder shown below:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202834047971291&set=pcb.1607016586203297&type=1&relevant_count=3

I like this one, but I think the standard method workes like a charm too.

Logically as long as the filament has not underlapped any part of itself it will never tangle. If the filament has underlapped at some point in the spool, it will forever tangle. Force pulling the filament may be a very short term solution as it will t angle again.

It is a good sign that the factory winds the spool firmly as that creates less space for filament to be wound incorrectly. 99% of tangles are probably caused by mishandling during opening or switching spools.

Keep in mind the spool winds and unwinds in an laterally alternating sequence, so no matter how the spool is orientated, at some point it will unwind in a direction counter to the way its being pulled.

Lastly, the extruder motor has a very high torque, try pulling against the filament with your fingers while it's extruding and you'll find that it can still overpower you, as long as the filament doesn't lose traction first.

Andrew - thanks for your comments and I do understand what you said. In my case I think I had a particularly badly wound spool. There were many times when the filament being pulled into the extruder was overlapped by several others, and the filament wa s wound so tightly on the spool that pulling it free by hand was difficult.

In these situations the extruder motor would continue to turn the extruder roller, but the teeth on it could not move the filament, so they just made filament dust. To fix this I had to disassemble the extruder rollers, use a toothbrush to clean out the teeth in the roller, and reassemble the extruder. Several times the extruder spring popped out and got away from me, but was caught by one of the magnetic rod ends.

I had this same problem regardless of whether the filament spool was vertical or horizontal. I tried loosening up the next 10 - 15 coils of filament, but the problem just happened again after those were used up.

That's when I decided to just unspool a large amount of filament and rewind it by hand. So far this seems to be working ok.

Birk Binnard what brand fillament are you using?

Precision 3D Filament

http://precision3dfilament.com/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:174383

檢查Z max endstop. 翻一下M119相關的檢測先..

拍影片比較快 XD

我試著更新軟體，我板子的選項應該選　arduino mega or mega 2560　還是　arduino mega adk ?

兩個都一直time out

Arduino:1.6.4 (Windows 8.1), 板子："Arduino Mega ADK"

java.io.IOException: 無法取代C:\Users\user\AppData\Local\Temp\build990044936376806074.tmp\SdFatUtil.cpp …… 查看更多

Arduino:1.6.4 (Windows 8.1), 板子："Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

建置選項已變更，重建所有 …… 查看更多

mega 2560
你是2.0那張新版子? …… 查看更多

感謝！
重新安裝過軟體了

可是問題還是一樣

換線..
或是跳過框上的轉接..
直接usb接到板子上 …… 查看更多

目前確定是微動開關的線脫落了，正在重焊，希望之後沒有別的問題

往下降就代表已經觸發了

好慘
原本昨天可以印了
後來做一個調整，把X柱的馬達的滾輪往裡面收一點(不讓他磨到柱子) …… 查看更多

那樣還是要檢查微動相關的部分...

請問我該怎麼檢查?
我目前已經用三用電表(蜂鳴器)檢查過了

M119 檢查各自觸發跟一起觸發時有沒有都正常
不過早先你不是說電腦連不上?
直接找條usb 接到裡面板子看看..不要過轉接頭

其實我沒有另外一本手冊...(哭
這台機器是winston shieh的，他請我把它全拆掉之後重新組一次...
結果他只有給我組裝手冊 …… 查看更多

那就可以開pronterface去下m119逐步檢查啦..
這邊檔案區看一下
0408_Mastering ATOM for Upgrade.pdf …… 查看更多

pronterface沒辦法跟它connect(試過了

Connecting...
Attempted to write invalid text to console, which could be due to an invalid baudrate
Attempted to write invalid text to console, which could be due to an invalid baudrate …… 查看更多

baudrate不對.. pronterface設定250000

哦哦哦!
接上了!

大大您是神!!!

....是Winston的機器嗎?

是的

昨天其實我印了一個300height

滿整齊的，只是4邊不怎麼整齊
而且印的時候有金屬摩擦的聲音，後來發現馬達在摩X柱(奇怪我之前為什麼沒發現?)
今早修好之後，就變這個問題了

找到了，這邊也是微動的問題，可能是手臂回家時往上押的時候接觸不良
看來又要重焊了(汗

謝謝各位大大!

這只是個假設：
如果微動壞了，是不是可以從滑鼠上拆一個下來換?

檢查一下噴頭上有沒有線路裸露或是跟噴頭短路

檢查一下微動開關中間那隻腳是不是沒剪乾淨跟機器上的螺絲短路

怕就是又燒掉一塊板子

樓上說的是我的慘痛經驗 XD

http://diy3dprint.blogspot.tw/2015/01/kisslicer.html

感謝. 請問 Z-offset 和 G29 Z+nn 有差別嗎? 之前好像在哪兒有看過，但後來找不到了。

Z-offset 跟 G29 的 Z+n 的 n 效果是一樣的

如果你有10台機器, 你會想用 Z+n 的作法,

不然你會需要切片切10次(假設都不一樣高度)