ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

I should add that I am using the most current beta version of Kisslicer - the one that supports round print beds.

It is easy to switch out versions of Kisslicer - the program itself is totally separate from all the parameters, so all you have to do is replace the kisslicer64.exe file.

Kisslicer sometimes got different bug on different revision ;p
Anyway, you always can preview the slice result layer by layer in kisslicer.

Whats the current value set for skin thickness?

Also can you post a screenshot of the sliced model in kisslicer?

I posted the first 3 Kisslicer layers and a shot of my settings in a new posting.

You are correct Clarence - I tried the "old" version of Kisslicer and it behaves differently. It did start with a solid first layer, but it also put in some strange things in subsequent layers.

Apparently there is something unusual about my STL file but I'm not sure what it is.

How about to use the Netfabb basic to check the stl file?

A sort of did that - I ran it through the Microsoft/Netfabb Model Repair Service.

Wow thats some strange behaviour, did kisslicer show any errors in the model upon import?

Yes and no. Kisslicer put up the error-code dialog box, but that just shows different colors for different kinds of errors. It did the slicing with no complaints at all.

The picture below shows a bottom view of my model. The bottom itself is just a 2D surface - it has no thickness. This may be the cause of the problem.

the model has to be solid, or fully enclosed by surfaces on all side in order to work properly in slicers. You can try to run it through meshmixer to solidify the model

You are correct!

I tried printing another model (a trial version of a napkin ring) and got really bad results. Then it occurred to me that I should convert my model from it's standard type (NURBS surfaces) to a mesh before generating the STL file. Af ter I did this the model printed fine.

My modeling program has the ability to convert any internal model to a mesh - and it even allows you to specify all sorts of mesh parameters - so I have no need for Meshmixer. I thought Meshmixer had a lot of useless functions anyway, but I can see how it would be good for an artistic person who wanted to make a free-form model of something.

that's great, are you using rhino to model? there are ways to make solid models without converting model to mesh. Here is a good read: http://wiki.mcneel.com/rhino/faqclosedsolids

Most excellent - thanks. Yes, I use Rhino and especially Grasshopper to make my models. I really like the concept behind parametric modelling.

rhino + grasshopper is awesome, looking forward to your works!

This model and the the large orange vase I posted before were both made with the same Grasshopper layout. I've got more models that say they will require around 30 hours to print. I'm not brave enough (yet) to actually print those. Plus I am still learning about how to deal with naked edges etc.

did you use the lubricant included in the kit ?

This is what the rough ball head looked like

I took apart the ball head and refurbished the finish on a lathe. Now it is better than ever before.

By now I have printed 300+ hours and the other ball heads are roughening too! I will refurbish them too, but this is a week point that needs fixing. I propose solid stainless steel of a magnetic grade (ferrite or martensitic).
Further more the plastic rod ends should be made of nylon not ABS. ABS got a high energy surface. You need a low energy material like nylon.

Hsuan-Yih Shawn Chu yes all of the ball heads have been well lubricated at all times.

The thing is that with nylon/stainless steel you dont need lubrication and you get a perfect glide. This is what is commonly used in industrial aplications where you got relative low loads and speed.

Hsuan-Yih Shawn Chu about the lubrication; if you got any plastic/metal mecanical motion contact. A teflon based lubricant is better suited.

Hi Andre, thanks for the suggestions! We will look into the things you mentioned. Our engineer Mark has informed me that our rod ends are actually already nylon. (It was incorrectly labeled on the website, which has just been fixed)

Andrew Lee great, that makes sense. You guys are awesome.

這樣開支撐會超悲慘...
可以評估看看是不是不用支撐就能完成這個圖..
https://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/......

我也想不開支撐，但似乎會發生一開始就走經的問題(接觸底面的地方一開始面積並不大)，有沒有什麼特殊設定呢? 我對設定很陌生，謝謝

剛入門的建議先用簡單的模型練習,
把機器本身的問題排除, 順便練習切片技巧,

像是這類空洞空心的模型, 及一些需要開支撐的模型,
都是需要累積一定經驗及技巧才比較容易印的漂亮.

像我還一直在練習摩艾人頭... XD

是喔那~您們都是看隨機器來的說明書上的調較就夠了嗎? 像這樣調到好需要花多少時間呢?

因為我有公司壓力。。

你那圖看來下面張個brim 能加強附著力就有機會起來了
但先從簡單的圖確定能穩定列印 跟平面夠平先吧

其實如果機器沒有太大電機及硬體上的問題~最重要的經驗值是在切層軟體的參數調整~這應該是經驗累積的~比如樓空物件~應該由哪個面做底面~物件方向調整~擠出及回抽的參數都是要由印了許多線材累積的~想要一下印得很完美~除非是直接拿高手設定好的G-code~要不然一蹴可及很難說~

你可以限定支撐高度，初步來看，上面沒用支撐可行的，那個洞洞熊我有印過，完全沒有支撐

感謝大家的意見 我再試試

另一招，可以用AutoCAD免費其中一套軟體MESHIMIXER去增加支撐

仔細看模型 那個地方小方塊都懸空 不要自己嚇自己

就印完方塊牽著斯跑過去印圓柱 抹在表面了

所以懸空會這樣無解?

切片參數貼上來看看

切片可能出問題了，
切完用(路徑+模型)每一層路徑拉過一次，
看看有沒有多出來奇怪的線段，
有可能是是stl檔有地方怪怪的。

有使用inside-outside列印嗎？（內徑優先）

圓柱上的我也遇過，就像Mark說的那樣，在兩物體間移動的時候有短短的牽絲，而牽絲又剛好微微往上翹時就有機會產生。因為每當往上移一層列印的時候，又會再次經過那一處繼續抹上去，就這樣慢慢往旁邊"長"出來了，如果仔細看，那幾個牽絲處應該就是噴頭在兩物體間移動的路徑上。記得官方影片在列印滾滾印章小人撒旦，他的兩手之間就有長，當初我還以為那是他超級纖細的手指頭...。這問題我偶爾才遇到，所以沒有特別去研究。至於背包那邊，可能是凸起的小方塊懸空造成部分絲線往下掉了。

樓上觀察仔細又認真 連長在這邊給予口頭上的嘉勉 么兩假ㄧ次

報告長官！請問我假單上面的理由是寫 與連長參加凱蒂佩芮變裝趴 嗎？

你想要有當不完的兵嗎

附上我的設定值 1

附上我的設定值 2

這樣就是切片懸空嗎?
但是看ATOM官網印的同個太空人但是沒有這樣的情況
想說是否有其他訣竅?
謝謝!

你的噴頭孔徑設定錯誤

然後無法由內圈開始印，噴頭wipe下，就一定長毛

這兩條懸空阿

SLS可以印懸空的~~~

但 SLS 好貴阿~~~ XD

infill Extrusion Widh(mm)=0.38~0.4

我都習慣設0.3勒....XD

原來馬克今天被帶出場

起立報好

2.0好像不需要常拆噴頭，除了剛開始搞破壞

這標準太寬鬆了....矇住眼睛的話Mark只需要3分鐘.......(就會放棄)

看到三分鐘我心ㄧ驚

明明最近中午都喝蚵仔湯

我還以為被南台灣太陽曬昏頭，看錯了

其實前一場是三分鐘沒錯... 只是忘了拍, 這是加碼的第二場~

隔壁的有沒有順便修一下？

隔壁的馬克動動小指頭就搞定了~

不愧是馬克大濕！

留收公司的我們還要幫忙收前女友寄來的卡片 ?

Bato 好厲害, 居然知道縮時裡頭有提到3........... XD

今天感謝馬克跟賴老闆還有Clarence的大力幫忙！

我前女友怎麼看起來像蕭查某(照片)

能認識 戴先生 李先生 2位 高手 也很開心 都是mark 在忙 我只有 觀戰啦 拍勢

我是把板子燒壞掉的新手, 不是高手~ XD

行家一開口 便知有沒有 戴SIir 您太客氣了 日後還要大家多多交流一下 有機會再和您及 李Sir 聊聊

請問鐵福隆管要剪多長？

拉ㄧ拉讓管徑縮小點後減35mm

35mm...趕快抄下來....

"Hair" is what we called string....so you should check your "destring" settings......the nozzle limitation for 0.2mm layer is about 60mm/s, it can certainly go faster, but the quality is obviously impacted. The rest is depending on how well adjustment for the system.

Thanks Bato. I've changed Destring Suck from 6 to 10 and increased the speed setting from 40 to 50 (23 to 27.5 mm/sec.) This time I'm printing a smaller part.

It's feel great, saw my blade seat on your ATOM. :D

Actually, My Suck" is just 5 and the speed is 120.... you can try it.

Setting Destring Suck to 10 is a bad idea - my filament just broke at the extruder so I have to find a way to get the broken part out of the teflon tube. This is going to be tricky.

I've set it back to 5 per your suggestion.

Suck 10mm is kind of too much, melted and expanded PLA will clog when they contact upper cold area.....and most of the time, it is very hard to pull it out....during the very early beta period, I was suffer from this, because 10mm suck is safe for 1.0. In my case, I replaced the whole inner PTFE tube to fix what I did.

I'm back in business Bato - thanks for the explanation about the Suck value.

What I did to fix the problem was to disconnect the teflon tube from the extruder and use a piece of brown filament to push out the broken part of the orange filament that wa s stuck inside. Of course I heated the hot-end up to 200% first.

It was actually quite easy to push out the old filament. When I saw the brown filament coming out of the extruder I knew I had fixed the problem. So I then re-loaded the orange and am now off printing again.

My next print - a cup or tumbler shape - is 59% finished now and it's clear that Destring Suck = 5 creates more hairs then 6. So next I'll try 7 and see if that is enough of an improvement.

This is my second print - it took about 9 hours. Only problem was a fairly large number of strings on the inside as a result of Destring suck = 5.. I removed these with some light sanding. Next print will try Destring suck = 7 since I already know 6 creates strings too.

people say that lower temperature will help.

Very interesting. I'll try 190 degrees next time. Thanks for the tip.

Birk Binnard For D-string i use 8-8-3 with a layer thickness of 0.2 that works really well and there are no hairs at all.

I made an experiment with a very complex model to see how the printer handles in the extremes. The G-code was 150 MB. Layer thickness was 0.1 and D-string was 8-8-3. Speed was 20. As you can see the amout of hairs looks a bid like a spider gone crazy. For some weird reason the lower part are more fragile than the upper part wich is very fine in detail. The print took 42 hours to complete and there were no problems on the way. Damn its a good printer!

BTW, check the push-fit. Make sure it's not moving up & down with the retraction. If it's moving, try to use some wire to tide it up.

I guess this model would print better with support made in Kiss, but I wanted stress the printer.

Clarence Lee what do you mean by push-fit?

this is great Birk! glad to see your printer is working now and very stable

The release sleeve might move.

André Medborg Actually I would like to go with the support like that, it's much easier to remove & still good result. Is it generate by Meshmixer?

Yes the release sleeve by the feeder is moving, but I have tried holding it back with two fingers and it really wants to move. Are you sure it should be still. I mean it makes sense, but the prints I made this far looks really nice (for the most part that is).

Clarence Lee I dont know how the support for the dragon is made. I found on Thingiverse But I do know that it takes a lot longer to print than conventional sparse support.

It's ok to use some removable wire or cable tide to stop it moving for better retract performance.

Thanks Andre - I've got a 6 hr. print I will do tomorrow with 8-8-3. Will post results here when done.

Clarence Lee thanks for the tip. I will try it it out.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:699415
or something like that

Sweet, thanks for that.

我來找找看我女兒有沒有不要的髮圈好了

手工材料行剪一段不用20元吧

一捲19元，可以用很久

這好實惠

實在太優秀了~

優秀不敢當，是經常亂搞

好方法耶

好的料上夭堂，壞的料搞死人

是呀~~大家用得料~都是哪家的呀~可以分享一下嗎

除了原廠外，我是大部分用Botfeeder的料

也都能穩定輸出蜂巢結構嗎

我的引擎全部是B牌材料

看來這最俗的料真的是不穩定呀

買到現在一年了才慢慢在消耗掉@@

如果有人可以推薦便宜又好用的那更好了

多學到一招

學到野 正呀