ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

附上昨晚列印的30公分高的方柱，至昨天為止都還很正常。

請確認微動開關是否正確連接
1代的容易斷(曾經是其受害者...)

最難接受的是，昨晚都好好的....
微動開關是哪裡呢？當初是直接購買組裝好的(自知沒有組裝的技術)

微動開關的螺絲沒有調整好，如果是一代的話稍微放鬆一下上蓋兩根固定螺絲

檢查圖中點焊處，它容易斷(所以我焊很厚…)
大大的情況應該是它要斷不斷的…
這很好修，別驚～

恩....我現在都會比較建議大家買DIY其實可以學到很多 機器作動的原理 廖新弘 現在遇到這種問題應該都是秒解

因為壞太多次，久病成良醫

剛剛有看看是不是焊接點問題~已組裝好的有附加保護套似乎沒有問題。
另外剛剛發現，滑台在沒有通電的時候用手可以輕鬆的上下移，
通電後其中一個滑台像是鎖死一般被什麼咬住，上蓋固定螺絲我再調看看，等下再請教大家~

我覺得應該是微動開關掛了

http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21451029153586

記得要用帶柄的

滑塊沒通電，很輕鬆移動很正常，快速移動銀幕還會亮，XD

用電表量一下電阻就知道有沒有壞了

不會吧，鎖死才是正常的話，
有兩個是通電後還是可以輕鬆滑動的@@....

那是指沒有通電下，可以輕鬆移動

應該通電下如果剛做G28的話，應該是不會移動的

如果不嫌棄小弟手拙、可以搬來給我義診^^..北部尤佳.

XD我也可以幫忙如果可以到頂溪的話

調鬆上蓋固定螺絲後，變得悲催了.....無限上升XD
事後調緊也沒用，看來真的是開關掛了。

YAP

那調整螺絲呢

不過這個好解決啦印象中OMRON去電子材料行買30塊搞定

家庭必備零件之一

換滑鼠按鈕嗎XD

螺絲調鬆後從本來影片中偶爾往下正常變成每個點都不斷上升XD
之後調緊也回不去了，
雖然我也是在北部，不過明天再去OMRON先自己修看看，不治的話再請大家幫忙了Q_Q

所謂的調整螺絲，不是調整上蓋的螺絲，而是噴頭下的的那顆螺絲

是碰到後會有滑鼠聲的螺絲嗎？
我再試試看。

上蓋固定螺絲稍微放鬆是為了，讓彈簧可以更有效的讓上蓋反應到定位

不過現在的印表機是，
都還沒移到底部發出滑鼠聲就自行往上了XD

那應該是你上面線有拉扯導致那個翹翹板機構被往上拉(同壓到玻璃效果)

手輕往上壓噴頭有聲音嗎

有的，手指往上輕壓都有聲音，不會有壓了沒聲音

看來是微動開關自己觸發的樣子，明天去買材料換看看。

Mark Chen 廖新弘 徐偉植
感謝三位大大的協助，剛剛重整噴頭上方的線，
再鬆開上蓋固定螺絲， …… 查看更多

我想應該是加熱線的紅色接頭接觸不良吧 可能有氧化 wd40噴噴

或是直接接起來

Mark Chen
剛才把噴頭整個拆開來，
去看是不是拉扯到焊接點， …… 查看更多

有遇過~~應該是你的噴頭微動開關調整太敏感~~他會在某個角度被線材拉扯而跳空~.調整微動開關就可以改善

王心志
今早搜尋了一下印表機狀況，跳空有可能因為線材拉扯，
且是因為微動開關未被觸發， …… 查看更多

解決了嗎?

Mark Chen
現在印表機已經到停擺狀態了 囧
微動開關不論如何調整都很任性 …… 查看更多

微動開關換了嗎?

桿子的話退回來跟我們換吧 脫落基本上 但是過保我就要問問看了

桿子問題好解決，去特力屋找一種金剛固力膠直接黏起來就解決，保證不會脫落

Mark Chen 廖新弘
謝謝大大們的關心，但是現在印表機的狀況太多，
已經分不清造成問題的原因了orz …… 查看更多

真的建議再檢查一下微動開關的焊點。我也被整過。可以用pronterface打測試指令。然後用手指去動動微動開關。如果它接觸不良的話，就會產生不同的結果。

你這個地方我又覺得是你同步輪沒鎖緊的感覺

settings Level 改 Expert

喔 ! 感謝!

位移就是失歩，那要檢查機構、皮帶、晶片電壓，牽絲問題就是回抽問題

我的經驗是上面方法都檢查測試過後，最後以降低移動加速度最有用

看樣子是皮帶鬆了，調整後就恢復正常，沒想到高北熊大大昨天才po文，今天就用到了

大體風扇吹著就是浪費電而已，M82沒試過，不過後風扇是直接走大電的不是嗎？也就是單切開關不關，依舊會轉

後風扇是幫噴嘴散熱用的，我是改接D9然後改firmware，溫度到某一設定值會開始轉低於就自己停，側吹風扇也可以一起接D9，

如果你的Power是ATX, M81可以關閉...如果是原廠的Power....M81下了其實沒有什麼實際作用.....

要記得等噴頭降溫後再關機

感謝各為前輩的教導

Bato Wang 請問要如何用M81關ATX power? 需要改板子跳線或改firmware嗎? 最近也一直在想如何自動關機這個問題。

ATX的PS_ON(綠色腳, 旁邊是GND), 接到板上的PS ON....如果你是2.0的MKS主板, 我就不確定了, 我手邊只有1.0的Ramps

Bato Wang 我是ATOM 1.99，我的板子上的PS-ON只有留焊點，沒有牛角可以插。感覺 旺旺旺旺 的方法比較適合我。不知可不可以改接D8或其他地方，我不想和側風扇一起開關。試想，在印完後等溫度下來，再關掉馬達及風扇。

我的PS ON是自己焊上去的.....另外印完等溫度降下來的用意是?....我用了幾個月的2.0了, 都是把M81放在postfix那段...最後印完, home以後就關電源....沒有任何問題.....

RAMPS 的資料: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS D8原是給溫平台用的，要另外接11A的電才能有用。如果只是用一般官方附的變壓器(5A)，那D8就不動作了。

一樣可以從旁邊5A拉到11A啊, 同一顆電源, 只是推不動熱床而已, 如果是要風扇, 倒是很輕鬆

Bato Wang 之前裝ATOM 1時，有次加熱後於高溫時突然斷電，噴頭就因高溫而冒煙。

1.0的噴頭容易有冒煙問題....但現在是2.0了耶

哦?! 所以2.0不會? 不過，感覺200度突然沒吹風扇，怕怕的。我目前試想是把G-code postfix中的"M104 S0"改成"M109 S40"，這樣應該可以讓風扇吹一陣子cool down之後，再關。(純試想，無責任發言)

要這樣做其實去用Marlin 的extruder_0_auto_fan

configuration.h 內
改成#define MOTHERBOARD 35
configuration_adv.h 內
# define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 40
pins.h內
# if MOTHERBOARD == 35
#define CONTROLLERFAN_PIN 10 //Pin used for the fan to cool controller
# endif
改成
#if MOTHERBOARD == 35
#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 10 //Pin used for the fan to cool controller
#endif

因為MOTHERBOARD 35定義的關係
這邊是把噴頭的溫度控制改到D8
噴頭本身的冷卻風扇用D10
工件的冷卻風扇維持D9

謝 Clarence Lee

Yes, it turns when the the gcode is given, M106 S255 will turn it on to max, M107 will turn it off. (255 can be any value between 0 to 255). If you try this gcode and it does not turn, you need to remove the rods from the nozzle assembly and try again, if in this case, it still does not turn, you need to check the wiring. If it turns, you need to find a best rod that does not have such strong magnetic field that force the fan stop.

Thanks Bato, that is excellent information. I will check the fans for proper operation and also the generated gcode.

I did some experimenting with the M106 and M107 commands. Here is what I found:

1. M106 turns the side blowing fans on. On my printer they both start up right away with no problem, so I do not have any issues with the magnetic rods.
2. M107 turns the fans off (as expected).
3. As Bato said, you can control the speed of the fans by adding SXXX to the M106 command. On my printer I have to use M106 S60 or greater to get the fans to start from a stopped state.
4. Some GCode I looked at has statements like M106 S33 and M106 S100. I think this means to set the fans at 33% or 100%. But this is not how Bato explained the S numbers. So I am confused about whether the S numbers should be 0 - 100 or 0 - 255. Perhaps this is different for different printers.
5. It seems like M106 starts the fans at full speed, although this is difficult to tell.

For now I'll just make sure there are M106 commands - with no S values - at appropriate places, and an M107 command at the end of each GCode file.

Birk, actually, 255 means 100% (Hardware runs on binary, and it is 8 bits), and it is PWM controlled.That means board actually send 12V pulse to the fan with different duration depending on the value you set. Too low value will not turn the fan and sometimes making funny noise. If you are using Kisslicer, There are setting about the fan, it will generate gcode for you.

Thanks for the screenshot Clarence - I'll test those out tomorrow.

太強了，請問可列印水貼哪裡買呢？

轉印貼紙一般美術用品社會有。
不然網路也有賣家在賣喔！
只不過你需要一台好到噴墨印表機跟護貝機。缺一不可～

為何要護貝機？

轉印紙為三層結構，製作時有一道手續是用“熱”把印在轉印紙上的顏料附著到特殊紙上產生黏著力。所以需要護貝機，才會受熱平整~

製作過程刊在01囉~有興趣的大大勞駕觀賞謝謝啦~
http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=368&t=4359548

風扇高頻聲困擾+1，求解。

不知道盔甲+壓克力板包起來之後會不會安靜一點...

裝上壓克力一定能有改善，能改善多少就得看壓克力厚度跟機體密閉程度，不知道這套盔甲在原設定上是使用多厚的壓克力板?

壓克力板~~~不會隨著印太多次而高溫變形或氧化嗎??

http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/噪音

"一般密度小、孔隙多的材料，吸聲效果好；結構緊密、光滑、堅硬的材料，吸聲效果差。"

Hi Andre, What have you been printing so far ? Why don't you share some of your works and settings and we could start discussing from there~

I have been printing for slightly less than a week and it is very clear to me that the slicing program is a key piece of the 3D printing environment, perhaps almost as important as the printer itself.

I have changed my KISS settings a bit from the recommended ones. I've got the Fast/Precise slider set to 42, and becau se my printer was experiencing some stepper-motor over-runs I added this statement to the GCode Prefix section:

M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z2000.00 E9000.00 ;max acceleration

This reduces the maximum acceleration from the firmware default of 3000 mm/sec to 2000 mm/sec. I also turned off the Prime Pillar.

In addition to Kisslicer I have been experimenting with another slicer:

http://www.craftunique.com/craftware?utm_source=Blog......

This slicer is not well known, but after looking at all the commonly used ones it was pretty clear to me this one was the most user-friendly, and in particular had the best 3D display of slicing results and extruder path. It also has a wealth of parameters that are not only well arranged, but also have good explanations.

Craftware seems to do a better job of calculating tool paths than Kisslicer. For instance, for an irregularly shaped first layer, Kisslicer will make several outline paths, and then fill in the middle with straight lines. Craftware, on the other hand, makes a series of concentric loops, decreasing in size as it reaches the center.

I think this makes for a better looking bottom, and also reduces the chance of over-run.

On the negative side, Craftware neither checks for nor repairs non-manifold STL models, and will typically do strange things when it tries to slice one. I've also had occurrences where it crashed trying to slice a complex but good STL file. So at this point my sense is there is no one good answer to "which is the best slicer?".

Birk, thanks for sharing I will take a look at it and try it out. But still I would like to gather a list of prefered settings for KISSslicer. After all this still is a very powerful tool (and it rarely crashes;).

Birk Binnard I have started testing CraftWare and my first hand impression is that this really is an awesome program. I will make some prints and share my results in a week or so.

I will be very interested to see what you think about the Craftware slicer. Before my Atom2 arrived I used it to slice many models and I found that the program still had a number of bugs.

For instance, sometimes it would simply stop slicing in the mi ddle of a model. Other times it would put solid layers in the middle of an open vase-type model. And sometimes it would simply crash. But I have to admit that some of my models cause any slicer to crash, and I have tested all of them.

Here is a link to the Craftware user groups. Some of the postings there may help you.

http://www.craftunique.com/forums

I have also tried cradtware before. First impression was that it takes longer to slice. One of the awesome aspect of kisslicer is that it slices extremely fast!

Actually my experience has been just the opposite. Of all the slicers I tested, and I tested all of them, Craftware was by far the fastest slicer, especially when using the Vector slicing option.

I think the reason for this is that Craftware is a mul ti-threaded application, meaning it can break the slicing operation into multiple concurrent independent tasks, and assign each task to an individual CPU for processing.

My computer has an i7 processor; this has 8 independent CPUs and can process 8 instruction streams at once. This means that a multi-threaded slicer will slice the same object 8 times faster than single threaded processor computer.

Birk Binnard I think slic3r/kisslicer use multi-threads,too. But maybe some dependency or slice flow difference.
Anyway, I tried craftware newest version. It's really faster than kisslicer on large object. (just tried to generate a 36MB gcode)

maybe it was the mac version that's slow....

每家線材溫度不一定，要自己摸索一下

擠料馬達的異音是推料不成，線材回彈時的敲擊聲

謝謝，推料不成是否可能是噴頭不良造成堵料，因為剛使用就有鐵屑在噴頭內有點擔心

有時候擠料彈簧臂那顆螺絲不夠鬆
會造成夾線不確實
也就會造成不穩定推料

小結論, 組裝 3DP 請勿使用蠻力~ XD

沒錯,更換噴頭後進料不順的問題都是進料手臂及皮帶鎖太緊造成的