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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 洪宗甫
2015-04-12 02:13:01

請問各位大大 垂直紋路要怎麼處理?

高北熊
2015-04-12 11:30:46

看起來還好,只是右邊間隙快沒有了

洪宗甫
2015-04-12 16:14:23

測試prime 多了0.2

廖新弘
2015-04-12 18:02:57

你可以試試看不加0.2

洪宗甫
2015-04-12 18:12:53

都有測 也都有不同分佈的垂直線條

洪宗甫
2015-04-12 18:26:34

這篇我有看過 不過是針對i3 也提到遠端進料系統應該會改善許多 所以我覺得造成的原因不太一樣

廖新弘
2015-04-12 18:31:08

這個很多原因造成的,如果有說錯請指正,1.噴頭的溫度控制,2.工作物的散熱,3.線軌的順暢度,尤其薄殼的東西,更容易呈現出來

戴士偉
2015-04-12 20:31:48

參考此篇的說明, 應該是薄殼問題, 可以加厚測試看看.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/permalink/1594827280755561/

Clarence Lee
2015-04-12 22:55:45

不太一樣...也有可能是步進的振動?(但透過皮帶傳導?)
或者...噴頭上風扇的振動?


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-04-12 01:20:37

What I did with the shrink-wrap material was to use several pieces to cover up the wire junction at the top of the Z column.

I tried using a hair dryer to shrink it but this did not work. So I used some of the black twist-ties that came in the kit.

陳智遠
2015-04-12 11:10:46

Give you a reference,my installation method

Birk Binnard
2015-04-12 14:09:47

Very nice. Better than my approach - but I cut off my flex tubing so I can't do that now.

Lawrence Lee
2015-04-13 10:09:36

FYI, you can use a lighter to shrink the shrink wrap

Birk Binnard
2015-04-13 12:38:44

An open flame sounds a little scary - but I might just try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

Clarence Lee
2015-04-13 13:19:13

Birk Binnard
2015-04-13 13:37:59

Excellent - very hot! I'll give it a try. Thanks.


原文網址 戴士偉
2015-04-12 00:28:38

0.05 vs 0.15
看不出層次感,但換層點有熱堆積

李沅融
2015-04-12 00:31:14

我也因此有點想改側吹風扇的角度 還有擋風片了

李沅融
2015-04-12 00:31:43

如倒立列印的人物角色雙腳 就是吹不到風扇 積熱崩壞

戴士偉
2015-04-12 00:35:08

下巴跟鼻孔都還不錯


原文網址 徐偉植
2015-04-12 00:25:05

總算不開支撐搭橋成功!
密私掉歷史的瞬間(扼腕...)

戴士偉
2015-04-12 00:25:44

徐偉植
2015-04-12 00:29:04

可以安心去睏了~期待明早的收割~~

李沅融
2015-04-12 00:38:25

參數求分享阿))))))

徐偉植
2015-04-12 01:23:40

希望有幫到...忘記是在哪看到的XD
溫度設定請斟酌 不知道為什麼200以下我都搭不起來...210才成功+_+

Jeff Lin
2015-04-12 09:16:26

Speed?

Clarence Lee
2015-04-12 09:23:26

Kisslicer其實沒有處理搭橋的問題, 玩Slic3r才有;p

徐偉植
2015-04-12 14:18:35

沒開支撐印超快的!
3小時33收割!
厚度2mm 100%速度列印
PS 我只會用kisslicer…算矇到的 ?

徐偉植
2015-04-12 14:20:32

懸空處有墊東西搭著印
連這時間我都想偷 ?

李沅融
2015-04-12 18:14:51

圖片層高是 3mm

徐偉植
2015-04-12 18:16:24

喔 2mm是模型肉厚 不是堆疊的層高

徐偉植
2015-04-12 18:17:26

層高是0.3mm

李沅融
2015-04-12 18:27:01

喔喔 了解 謝謝指正


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-04-11 22:51:53

STRANGE BEHAVIOR IDENTIFIED!

I believe I have found the cause my Atom2's inability to do Auto Home. The problem is caused by an incorrect interplay with the X-Stop and Y-stop microswitches.

When the X-Stop is open the Y-Stop behaves properly. But if X-Stop is closed the Y-stop will always report open, even if it is closed.

Here is a screencap of the result happening:

The first set of endstop states shows the Atom2 status with Y and Z carriers at full top and the X carrier about an inch down from the top. As expected, YMax and ZMax ar triggered, but XMax is not.

What I did to get the second set readings is to simply manually close the XMax switch. When I do this XMax shows properly but YMax is now open, even though the Y carrier is still at the top and it's microswitch is closed.

My guess is this is caused by some strangeness in the Atom2 microcode since previous testing ruled out a physical problem with my Atom2's motherboard. Hopefully someone can figure out what causes this a put a fix into the code.

Clarence Lee
2015-04-11 23:02:16

I think it's much like a controller board signal issue, instead of the firmware bug.

Birk Binnard
2015-04-12 00:07:28

Thanks for your help Clarence - at least we now know the problem is a bad motherboard. I expect I will be contacted soon about arranging for a replacement board.


原文網址 戴士偉
2015-04-11 21:25:26

這顏色好Cool~

傅耀儀
2015-04-11 21:41:08

血腥摩艾

陳亮宇
2015-04-11 22:13:27

有沒有興趣試試層高0.05mm?

戴士偉
2015-04-11 22:30:15

0.05 喔~ 讓我玩玩 XD


原文網址 葉世瑋
2015-04-11 17:24:08

請問這是怎麼回事? 今天要印卻黏不住底板,履試不爽根本印不下去…

Yu Shu Huang
2015-04-11 17:39:26

不知道是不是下雨天比較濕的關係 我印測試的鐵塔也一直黏不住

廖新弘
2015-04-11 17:51:10

做G29前,噴頭有預熱嗎

Stanley Chen
2015-04-11 18:33:39

玻璃先擦擦說不定就可以了

林宇辰
2015-04-11 19:32:24

建議先將底板擦拭一遍,重新上口紅交,在確認是否G29有問題,希望以上有幫助到你:)

陳順得
2015-04-11 21:30:32

你的口紅膠看起來沒有撫平,也沒有完全乾,這樣會很難附著喔

葉世瑋
2015-04-11 21:47:40

後來我用酒精擦過玻璃,重上口紅膠也是一樣,看來真的是下雨天比較慢乾,待會拿吹風機試試看

戴士偉
2015-04-11 22:41:40

塗口紅膠, 再灑一點點水, 再用菜瓜布刷一刷, 等它乾就有一層平滑的口紅膠了~

用過濕紙巾會有毛屑, 還會吸膠水, 菜瓜布很不錯 :P

林宇辰
2015-04-11 22:54:41

可以塗口紅膠上去在用打火機烤一遍,上個兩三層就夠了,每一層都要先烤噢

高北熊
2015-04-11 22:55:23

試試看這支,真心推薦

林宇辰
2015-04-11 22:56:38

ATOM2.0內附的那隻小黃使用上覺得比小紅黏,但兩款都很讚!

高北熊
2015-04-11 23:00:12

3M紅膠好處是冷卻後會乾,比較好清理
UHU一直都黏黏糊糊的,比較難整理

戴士偉
2015-04-11 23:02:08

不是加點水, 抹一抹, 繼續印嗎? @@

徐偉植
2015-04-12 00:32:43

用久了會積灰塵 影響附著(個人經驗...)

Lawrence Lee
2015-04-13 10:14:46

板子可以拆下來洗一下,乾淨的板子只要薄薄一層膠就黏很緊了


原文網址 楊崧柏
2015-04-11 13:43:39

請問自動校正G29 Z+0.3後,開始列印擠出第一層及外圈Skirt的層厚,用游標卡尺量要厚度多少?才算標準。我調校正的螺絲調到印出約0.3的厚度,擠出馬達就會噠噠噠的聲音,應該是噴頭跟平台太近了,導致出料回彈。但是在論壇的舊文章中說道,第一層要調到0.15~0.2,不知是哪裡有問題?

Mark Chen
2015-04-11 13:49:48

第一層列印速度太快?

廖新弘
2015-04-11 13:50:15

馬達有聲音不一定是貼太近,溫度也有關係,列印速度也有關係

楊崧柏
2015-04-11 13:57:11

在還沒有轉緊螺絲時(輕壓噴嘴就有噠一聲的情狀下),擠出馬達不會有噠噠噠,但是第一層太高。Kisslicer都是用官方設定值,溫度200,速度滑塊數值是75(算快嗎?)

廖新弘
2015-04-11 13:58:45

75是什麼單位

楊崧柏
2015-04-11 14:02:57

Kisslicer操作畫面右下角部分有個Fast---Precise的調整滑塊,往右邊調到75數值。所以第一層確定是要層厚0.15~0.2嗎?

楊崧柏
2015-04-11 14:05:16

75的數值中Loops:11.25、Solid:18.75、Sparse:30,單位是mm/s

Clarence Lee
2015-04-11 14:09:49

預熱到200先手推料看看順暢度...

楊崧柏
2015-04-11 14:18:59

預熱到200,從擠出馬達右邊手推料,出力推料,擠出的料都蠻平均,只是所謂的順暢度,是指出的力道大小嗎?

廖新弘
2015-04-11 16:47:04

基本上還OK,你可以試看看調高個5度


原文網址 徐偉植
2015-04-11 10:27:11

發現每隔一段列印時數後,3DP會暴走…
從昨晚一直校正的現在…
吼…麥夠來亂啦!

Jeff Lin
2015-04-11 10:33:04

原來你是01上面做高鐵模型的大師阿!

徐偉植
2015-04-11 10:36:33

ㄟ...不敢說是大師...只是個靠CAD吃飯的XD

Jeff Lin
2015-04-11 10:37:53

你的狀況,我猜應該是自動校正惹的禍

徐偉植
2015-04-11 10:39:40

ㄟ...是喔!我是調換同步馬達晶片後才可以正常列印的XD
每次出問題的地方都不一樣

Rickey Yang
2015-04-11 11:52:59

不知是不是馬達晶片散熱不良

昭堂張
2015-04-18 16:24:21

請問最後有找到問題點嗎?我好像也有類似的問題。

徐偉植
2015-04-18 23:06:12

您好
我是調換同步馬達相連接的晶片後就可以正常列印了
會導致這種歪斜列印的原因很多...物理原因?電子元件問題?
每台機器的症狀都不盡相同...不妨逐一確認

昭堂張
2015-04-20 01:25:59

謝謝。我後來找到問題了。還好不是熱的問題。只是單純的微動開關焊點"藕斷絲連"造成。


原文網址 Winston Shieh
2015-04-11 10:03:12

2 photos attached Photos taken when power on, fan is running but no light on any other parts. We already re-connect the magnetic bearings. Windows cannot detect COM Port any more. (Before I cannot connect via Com Port 4). Now I cannot connect to the printer using Arduino (Port gray out) or Pronterface (No port show up).

廖晉緯
2015-04-11 10:36:26

I had the same issue but now solved, you could removing all 8825 boards(the red ones to power up the step motors) and plug the entire board with computer to see whether it's working

Winston Shieh
2015-04-11 11:12:47

Thank you for sharing your experience. However, I removed all board connections, only keep power red and black. Try to connect to computer, cannot see the port. Plug all connections back, LCD still dark.

Clarence Lee
2015-04-11 11:27:15

How about remove the 12V power, only usb connect to the board not working, either?

Winston Shieh
2015-04-11 12:29:15

Clarence: You mean just remove the red and black power lines, or remove all connections including power lines? Will the USB connection to the computer provide power to the board?

Birk Binnard
2015-04-11 13:08:10

On my Win7.1 system my Device Manager never shows the printer at all, even when it is connected to Pronterface. Instead I see, under USB devices, something called a Serial Port Emulator. But I can still connect to the printer OK by specifying the proper Serial port. On my system, I have Serial ports 1 & 3 and the printer is on #3.

Clarence Lee
2015-04-11 13:32:58

It should be power up the board function when only USB connected.
It would be detect as a FTDI usb to serial port device as COM* . if you have FTDI virtual com port driver installed.

Winston Shieh
2015-04-12 02:34:15

I remove all connection and still cannot connect to the board from my computer, cannot see USB/COM port at all. What should I do next?

Peter Wu
2015-04-13 10:03:38

Hello, Winston. I just sent you the email to solve the problem, please let us know if the problem is solved, and I will compile all the solutions for future users. :)

Birk Binnard
2015-04-13 12:51:31

I just downloaded and installed the FTDI USB to Serial driver from this site:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
and now I can see my Atom2 in Device Manager on COM3.
The driver is WHQL Certified so there should be no problem installing it on any Windows system.

Winston Shieh
2015-04-13 12:54:30

Birk: Thank you. I installed the FTDI USB to Serial driver on 2 Windows 7 laptops, still cannot detect the printer USB. I need to get the LCD go dark issue solve.


 

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