ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

下午開工

那不是失步。那是冷縮或溫度擺盪

風量開小一點試試看

天氣變冷，風扇太強的ATOM容易感冒，沒有熱床的只好先塞衣櫃避寒了XD

Seems not. Details will be later in hours. Today is a tough day to me.

Understand - thanks

If it's problematic after a few mins, the first I would check is the back cooling fan effective.
It sound like coldend too hot.

Try to measure the temperature around coldend area.

The back fan is OK - I can tell by the sound it makes. I did stall the blades once when I reassembled the printhead, but that was immediately obvious and has not happened again.

Only one of my side-blowing fans works (I should have replacement fans in a couple more days) so this could result in uneven temperatures, but would this be enough to cause hot-end clogs?

hmm I don't think so, but did your inner 3*2 ptfe tube already got the replacement?
Maybe a photo focus on the hotend & effector.
wondering there might be something related.

To tell the heat resistor and thermistor ok or not.
Check the temperature by other thermometer.

Yes, I did replace the inner PTFE tube and have checked it several times. It is OK; not burned or melted at all and filament passes through it OK. All the parts in the hot end look good actually - I'll take a pic next time I have it disassembled.

Birk Binnard For your situation, I guess you should try to use the smallest allen wrench to push or pull out the materials stuck in the triangle field of hot-end.
In general, the printhead have three regions, PTFE, triangle area, extrusion hold. And we always aware to replace PTFE, but never pay attention to the triangle area.
As my personal experience, this area is the most important about the printhead. So, after you clean it up, you may solve the problem you have encountered.

Could this be that the PTFE tube can be easily moved within the hotend? The extruder sometimes pull back the filament, which I imagine could also pull the inner tube, leading to some filament getting stuck in between the hotend and the end of the tube. I have similar issues from time to time, but manually pushing the filament usually solves the problem.

that means inner ptfe tube too short
Or you are talking about longer one?

Here is a pic of my disassembled hot end. The internal PTFE tube is 19mm long and filament passes through it OK. The Quick Connector is just below/behind the 2 yellow wires; it has white filament in it. The heatsink comes off easily and is not clogged or dirty. The pieces of electrical tape are mine - they cover up solder joints where I had re-soldered wires I broke during previous disassembly/reassembly attempts.

I am a bit reluctant to take the entire hot end apart for fear of breaking either the heating resistor or the thermistor. I have used the end of a paperclip to poke down the top of the hot end and clean out whatever filament is in there, but the same problem keeps recurring.

19m is too short, it would moving inside up & down when retract

Originally the PTFE tube was 23mm long, but I found that the bottom end (the end inside the hot end) was ending up in a slight conical shape that seemed to restrict the filament moving through it. Plus, the PTFE tube is a tight fit inside the metal piece that holds it so I don't think it moves very much (if at all.)

I guess I can try a piece 23mm long again just to see what happens.

OK - I tried a longer tube - 25mm to be exact. Pic #1 shows the longer tube next to the shorter one (19 mm) I had been using.

The longer one failed pretty badly. At 200 degrees I was able to push a tiny bit (maybe 4 mm) of filament through the hot en d, but that's all. After that I could neither feed nor extract any filament. So I raised the temperature to 240 degrees - hotter than I have ever used with PLA before - and the filament was still stuck. So I disassembled the hot end and found that the PTFE tube was stuck in the hot end. I managed to get it out with considerable effort (again heating to 240) and Pic #2 show how it looked when it came out.

Here is Pic #2

Yes, the inner one. Mine lost its triangular head when I pulled after it was stuck, so it does have more wriggle room that what it should.

Just out if curiosity, what is the yellow bit in the lower left below the fan?

It is one of 2 identical horseshoe shaped printed parts called a quick_connector_spacer. It fits in the space at each end of the Bowden tube and significantly reduces the movement of the tube when the printer does retracts. The bottom line is it helps a lot with reducing stringing.

I couldn't find it online so here's a link to the STL file:

https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......

I put a new piece of PTFE into the hot end and reassembled it. Before I did this I made sure the inside of the hot end was clear of any old filament or PTFE residue. With the new PTFE and temperature at 200 I can manually push filament through the hot end, but it takes a lot of pressure to do this - basically I have to grab a piece of filament with some pliers and push hard on it to get any extrusion.

I doubt any extruder gear would be able to push filament with that much force so my only conclusion is there is something wrong with either the hot end itself, or perhaps the heating resistor.

Could the resistor be heating unevenly?

Could you check if resistor not loosen?It should be stable touch the hotend.
But since you said the temperature is stable, it`s not like its moving.
Or maybe the thermistor problem?

Anyway， use multimeter to measure the heat resistor resistance.

Birk Binnard try to use smallest allen key or others to cleanup hotend inside deepest area when heatup the hotend to 200.

What is the expected ohm value? I had a broken thermistor when I first assembled the printer and remember that the manual was quite elusive, something like "it works if it is not zero".

it's a range usually not all the same by batch
So it's better recalibrate by M303
it shouldn't be 0 or open
As I measured before on different batch I got , usually around 2~4 ohm.

It doesn't look like there are any places on either the resistor or the thermocouple to put the multimeter probes. I might be able to see better tomorrow during the day.

Actually I found that a 1/16" twist drill works very well for this purpose. Of course I turned it by hand and not in a drill chuck.

multimeter probe on wires where you connect it.

OK - I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks.

水泥嗎?

好厲害~~ 可以開課嗎~~~~

水泥燈

哈哈 有興趣可以參考這個影片
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR41O1KLlTo
目前都是閒暇時間在玩 如果有喬出時間開課再通知大家~

那模這麼厚要怎麼脫模阿? 不會碎麼 ?

好想兩台來ＰＫ一下！有神人做過這樣的測試了嗎？

手邊兩台都有
想要看什麼結果？

在這裡，要投ATOM一票。 XD

暫停記憶位置並歸零基本上改韌體程式碼就可以了，不用額外花錢。這時候就要呼喚 Po-Hsun Peter Wu 了，對手的挑戰要不要回應一下？

ATOM贏就贏在這個社團上啊~
那麼多好用戶支援根本無價
話說FLUX好像也準備要出貨了(皮繃緊

怎麼感覺好像跟買「手機、筆電、桌機」一樣，有坐這山望那山的感覺⋯⋯
只要現在需要並且用的到就是最好的產品！

個人覺得買就跟買車買手機除非真的很愛要不然就是等二代穩了再買比較保險

關鍵字 赤兔 3d打印 控制板

這陣子跟PING聯繫時，發現他們團隊真的很客氣也很用心在經營。我認為台灣跟阿六不同處就是這種軟實力比較強！希望他們也能邁向下一個里程碑

投ATOM+1 https://857.com.tw/viewproduct/ATOM3Dprinter/2

互相學習是好事~

What is actually the price of that one?

青菜蘿蔔各取所好 就我看來 能跟大家一起玩同一台機器 在生活上添增不少樂趣 :)

講一個大家可能不好理解的故事: 一台飛機失事，然後在孤島上倖存者只剩下一個A男的跟一個身材火辣的B名模，兩個人互相依偎也在一起了 ，五年過去 ，A男一臉惆悵的跟B名模說:ㄟㄟ 你可不可以打扮成男的，然後從我面前經過?(B名模照做) 然後A男就跑過去跟B名模說:ㄟㄟ!你知不知道我現在跟B名模交往耶!(完)

重點就在分享啦!XD

這是共源共享的宗旨

這ㄧ台好奇怪，官網上ㄧ個列印成品都沒展示，印表機功能再炫再漂亮，最重要的還是列印成果，但這ㄧ點完全看不出來是如何

買了這台後才知道原來自己的大學同窗好友有開發圓徑500的機台。看來我又要買第三台了！問朋友說從來沒聽你有賣這個，他說當初是自己公司需要打樣所有自己組裝，沒有特別去推這產品，但是穩定度自己人要當然要掛保證的！

個人認為哪一台都好.重點是拿3dp要做什麼.目標要明確.畢竟有繪圖的門檻在

最近用ping印的

我也正在努力雷！也層不夠深再來一次

檢查擠料齒輪/ 溫度/彈簧, 另外溫度提高五度試試看, 此外比擠出比例提高

預擠/回抽長度設多少?

參數跟斷料時進料口到噴頭間的照片還是貼一下，不然根本是猜謎遊戲

料有沒有打結？

料沒有打結，昨晚有把料丟進防潮箱一晚看看是不是受潮......@@

回抽太長了，融化的料被拉到冷區降溫後卡住了

列印速度也要貼出來

設定上除了溫度稍高，不至於直接造成卡料，接下來需要看你機器整個掛線軸，進線口，出料機構的照片來判斷

了解，我料不是直接掛著，是用培林做軸心，應該不會摩擦力太大抽不動.....囧

那你可能就要檢查內襯ptfe管並清理喉管了，你的習慣列印溫度偏高，可能會導致變形跟碳化物堆積

李穆表情真可愛

笑太久，臉部有點失調.......

抽獎時我去接電話了，想哭～

我是沒中獎的幸運兒

有丁大啊！
是熱床獎！