ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

Is there a supplier in the US who has this filament?

這不是一點點點
是超級厲害！！！

厲害！

Depends. Maybe you can share some pictures,then we can point out which are most significant in your situation.

http://youtu.be/VgPOx3VdNS8

1. Enable brim to avoid this problem.
2. Slow down your first layer speed.
3. Shut down fan/cool.
4. Higher temperature than normal object.

I made a 20 lines skirt (is it a skirt?) for my Christmas Star : http://youtu.be/wnRHPWuzORM

Seeing the video, i have to say, that the printer sounds funny :-/

其實目的是想看ATOM機子是不是有這樣的發展機會 XD

話說雙噴頭已經觀望好久了.....

應該是有技術瓶頸難克服
光想…我已經想到好幾個…

印的不是很好

Take a look at your g code the print head properly ended up outside the print area.
VW does this with really bic things on Delta's

Unfortunately I'm not all that familiar with GCode so I'm not sure I'd be able to recognize a problem with it. But my guess is the issue was with the printer, not the GCode.

When I got to the printer the printhead was on the top surface of the part - which was a correct position. But the Y-Axis carrier was about 4 inches lower than it should have been - it was near the bottom of the Y column instead of being near the top where the X & Z carriers were. So there was no way the Y arms could be connected to the printhead - which they weren't.

To reconnect them I just pushed the Y carrier up to about where it should have been and then reconnected the arms. After doing that I powered up and did the Auto-Home funciton.

I have no idea how the Y carrier got where it was; I guess there could have been some sort of error in the Y-value GCode. But doesn't the printer's firmware do a fancy geometric transformation of X.Y,Z values to internal commands for the stepper motors? Seems to me this would make it difficult to find out why one carrier was sent to the wrong position.

Is there any deformation in The structure of The lamp? Had a similar Problem where he lost steps and because of that The x and z tower ripped The printhead off.

Joschka - no, the entire part is looks perfect; no deformations, missed loops, or anything like that. I understand about missed steps but I see no evidence of that anywhere.

What I mean by the gcode is like you can see on this screen dump, the trail ends off the printer area. Check the last position before the home command. If this is the case you cam modd the gcode in Notepad by changing the last wrong entry (x, y position) to 0.000 0.000 then save and open in CW and see again. You may have to do it over more than once before you get a hang of it.

Oh yeah, move the "Line slider" to see the hotend position.

Andre - OK, I see what you mean. I'll check the GCode and see what I can find out. If your suspicion is correct then I'll notify the CW developer that I have found another bug that needs fixing. My feeling is that no end user should have to edit GCode to prevent things like this.

Sounds good. I notified them too ☺

Andre - I think I am confused! Here is a screenshot of the last position. I think it shows the hotend position at X=-100.150, Y=100.203, Z=235.05. I have no idea where these numbers come from, clearly they should be 0,0,0. But they are within the printer's limits of 210,210, 320.

Or am I misunderstanding what those limits really are?

把連桿改長一點, 犧牲一些列印高度, 到邊邊就比較有力一點~

丁大，討教一下您的Accel, Amax X/Y/Z

我注意到的是您的手毛

印大一點都會翹 我的拳頭也快翹

有點都不大啊 小東西而已

我的解法是 brim 溫度拉高10~20度，速度放慢到60~70%，brim 加厚到 0.2mm，然後印完後再恢復正常。基本上和膠帶就很牢，反而是膠帶跟玻璃會被拉開，這就無解了。

改熱床後就無腦印了(挖鼻)，不過口紅膠上厚一點+Brim開大基本上也沒有問題啦！

我開除濕加暖爐

感謝各位提點
本來有考慮要用吹風機吹它

我用切割墊 + 口紅膠後就沒翹過，
而且若懶的時候物件拔起來後口紅膠殘膠用濕衛生紙抹勻還可利用，若擔心的話抹勻乾了再上口紅膠。

另外一個更愉快的是，口紅膠可以用之前(隔一天以上也可)先塗，乾掉再印也很牢 ~

ps. 我的切割墊沒上膠會翹曲剛買來印兩次有發現，但配合口紅膠有完全不一樣的表現

缺點:千萬要注意熱騰騰的噴頭別接觸到切割墊(利用v2.0.3校正一次就好，減少噴頭穿洞的機會)

若遇較長或大物件力道會彎曲時，應該切割墊與玻璃黏薄雙面膠，我是還沒這樣用(怕凹凸不平)，有遇到雖然黏很牢，但是物件把切割墊鼓起來 ~
還有噴頭別撞長尾夾~

聖誕老人也很療癒~

可能不夠牢固，所以錯位了

會不會噴頭不夠牢固造成?