ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

有, Clarence Lee

好聰明,不需改機直接的選擇,
但是我記憶中我相機接這種記憶卡有遇過開不了機的一些怪現象,不知...接ATOM是否會發生一些異象?

感覺越來越需要了，整天插拔卡～卡槽不知道能撐多久...

Eye fi 的卡插上去可以掃到Wifi,但是我以前沒這樣用過,
要確定如何用PC與它連接上傳與管理檔案 ~

所以，這個系列，有人成功過了嗎？我也覺得每天在那插拔很煩。

我是直接用舊筆電當Server，USB接著用Pronterface印，雲端傳檔還可以遠端遙控，SD卡什麼的就忘了它吧

Was your model 100% ok on both before you started?

I found that with Craftware your model has to be without any mistakes. If any, it behaves irrational.

Yes it was OK - I ran it through the 3D Builder error corrector which uses Netfabb's algorithms.

Hmm, that is weird.

check if it's missing layer, since I still have problem with craftware with some model even after 3d builder repair or NetFabb

Clarence - I did check the results of the Craftware slicing and I cannot fine any missing layers. I know that was a problem before, but it was supposed to be fixed in the current 2.13 version. As far as I can tell it has been fixed.

But to add more c omplication to this matter, here is a pic from a similar part I just printed - similar in that the ribs are the same, but the part also includes the underlying curved surface. So perhaps the problem has something to do with the geometry/toolpath being generated.

Please send me the original 3D file. I suspect there may be some kind of issues with you model

It's on THingivers & Pinshape:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1178499

Hi Birk I mean the nurbs file so I can try my magic

OK - it is a Rhino file generated from Grasshopper:

https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......

Sweet I'll take a look at it later

Problem solved (I think)

Someone on the Craftware forum discovered that Craftware inserts 2 extra prime/suck commands whenever (1) the Avoid Holes option is checked and (2) the GCode moves the printhead from one "island" to another - meaning it stops the flow of filament while it moves from one part of the model to another part.

To fix this you need to uncheck the Avoid Holes option in the slicer Advanced tab. I'll do a test for this soon. If you want all teh gory details here is a link to the full thread:

https://craftunique.com/forums/view-thread/1400/#13878

Birk I ran your Lamp8 through different setups. And what I can see is that your model is not one true solid, but multiple ones overlapping each other. To make one solid with this file mark the entire model and run the Boolean Union in Rhino. Now save it as .stl and slice it with CW. This gives a perfect result.

Andre - thanks for your suggestion. I had not tried the Rhino Union command on any entire part before because it did not seem to me to be necessary. I do understand what it does so will use it from now on. I did discover the following Rhino strangene ss however:

I called the 3DM file I posted a skeleton lamp because it has only the ribs, and not the underlying solid sides/surfaces. If I include the solid surfaces (there are 2, an inside & an outside) the Rhino Union command fails. This suggests to me there is something not quite right about how Grasshopper's Bake command generates Rhino geometry. My guess is it has something to do with naked edges, but of course this is only a guess.

I guess what I'll do from now on is to first try the Union command, and if that fails revert to my standard practice of eliminating as many naked edges as I can and then using 3D Builder's Repair function to fix everything else.

你有沒有聽到海的聲音

這什麼程式，怎麼可以在網路直播

youtube的直播

加速度有點大

I have seen ceramic heaters online that look like the one in Atom2's hot end. Try Googling things like "3D printer ceramic heater" and you should be able to find them.

I just find them on Alibaba for 0.1 - 2$ per piece with 15-35 delivery days.. Was hoping for any shop in Europe so I can print again within the next week... ._.

ANyone knows the delivery Time from the official atom3dp site? Will it arrive in europe before christmas? :D

How about asking the ATOM official contact window for order the spare parts?

I had the same problem and I simply ordered it from atom directly- their service is very good

Thanks for your answers guys :)Question is still: What is delivery time from official Atom page to europe? :o

兩個字：不順

內部填充有一根根翹起嗎？看是不是噴頭刮到翹起物

噴頭乾淨
溫度ok穩定
皮帶有調好

是噴頭在沒有料的情況下快速移動會卡
應該怎調呢

位移速度設太快了？

沒有欸 ?

150會太快嗎？跟寶典的

某方向的馬達溫度太高，或皮帶調太緊?

連續第三次這位置移到右邊了

皮帶鎖太緊 檢查看看

可以調到100以下試試，我自己是調80左右

妳可以參考看看

z-lift多少

謝謝！！！

位移速度設太快的話，步進馬達有可能會失步造成妳這種錯位的情況，xy軸的加速度妳可以設1000，再列印一次試試

0.3

沒有欸 ? ?

那還OK，可以調低點，可能要檢查皮帶跟晶片電壓，確定OK後，再降低機器機XY的加速度，選單-control-motion-accel-調低到500試試

檢查一下皮帶輪，看有沒有鎖緊。

謝謝！！晶片電壓要怎樣測呢？

有！

那要用3用電表測，請參考寶典第46頁

自動校正時,噴頭是否乾淨?列印平台是否平整，我覺得妳的第一層就出現問題

我用紙抹乾淨噴頭，平台也乾淨呀 ?

請試印原廠附的 300high 的檔案

平台不可以乾淨…
口紅膠

印過了呀

對，我是說抹乾淨上了一層妥妥的口紅膠

第一層沒黏好有氣泡，你可以試著平面校正時用旋鈕把速度放慢到10％，會比較準！

甚至可以先把機器更新到2.0.3版韌體，可以在Motion選單底下找到調整平面校正速度的選項，也可以直接調整Z+值比較容易控制噴頭高低；置頂文裡面我有回覆一位同好如何更新。

另外玻璃上的口紅膠塗個3層，厚一點不容易有氣泡，可以利用一點大氣壓力比較抓的住，等待約5分鐘讓它半乾黏性開始上升再開始印。

口紅膠要用含有PVP成份的，推薦3M紫色口紅膠。

列印件要開Brim，寬度設定用10mm甚至以上，Brim厚度則至少要0.2以上

某方向的皮帶調太緊導致馬達溫度太高，可先吹電扇降溫試試

重印，主要看第一層是否均勻，不用印太高，3mm就可停

跪拜

很奇怪是有時候印第一次不ok，不改任何設定印第二次又ok了

判定是參數設定或硬體出錯

怎樣不OK

例如出料不均

現在我把速度調慢，沒事了

嘩眨眼又詳細那麼多

預熱噴頭至200度，手動推料，看噴頭擠出的料均勻否，8成噴頭有堵，用通樂通一通

測過了，沒堵耶很順 ? ?

另問溫度設多少?

200

好像可以了耶！！謝謝！！！！

調190試試，起泡泡會是溫度太高

加油，把握一個原則，列印東西不求快，欲速則不達。寧可慢印一次就印好作品，總比求快印壞了一再重印，還來的省時間哦

請問如何設成中文介面呢？

這中文介面是我們自行翻譯的,只提供我們自己的客戶使用,你可上官網下載中文的語系檔使用,應該是簡體的

好的, 感謝!

Good job~

有點嚴重。你的參數？

請前輩們幫忙指點,謝謝

列印速度太快

速度設定如下

先檢查材料是否受潮 印完不收 很容易影響品質 換個新料印印看就知道

你進料管快接頭有加墊圈嗎？ 沒有的話回抽預擠長度開6太小了，料沒抽乾淨當然會長一堆樹枝。 另外列印速度不要超過35比較好，除非你的料流動性很好，而且進料機構調的很順暢

李大說的快接頭是指這個地方對嗎？ 這樣應該算沒加墊圈對嗎？其他設定我再照您說的調查一下，謝謝指點。

你的問題在於 trigger 100 等於幾乎不回抽。

可分享檔案嗎？

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1034169

Nice, what settings did you use?

可以賣了www