ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

Yes I know. But the Craftware software works very well on the Atom2 - better than Kisslicer in my opinion.

Looks like worth to try it again!!
SlicerSettings/GCode/Early extrusion: You can instruct the gcode generator to shift back extruder movements in time. The gcode viewer really hates it, though. This will be fixed in the future when the gcode viewer wil …… 查看更多

Yes CW does an awesome job. However after the upgrade the end position of the extruder is for some reason outside the primt area. This results in the printer doing the job but ends up cramping outside the extent print boarder. I can't seem to fix it. Any tips?

Yeah got that right, but the problem remain. I also tried with a thin object and here the extruder print end point is within the perimeters, but moved next to it like on the picture but not as far. Once it finish printing and go to the "finish-point" it moves to home.

Andre - that's odd. I had no problem, and all I did was Home & Level.

Ya, where, where please.

I am in the US so I ordered it straight from their website:

http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plates/

The plate itself is 3 layers: black, middle that appears to be some sort of fiberboard, and white. The black & white surfaces look like formica but i was told in my latest email exchange with them that "it's more complicated than that."

Here's a copy of part of my latest email with them:

===========
You mentioned I said something about no skirts or brims. Skirts aren't really for adhesion, but more to purge the nozzle and give you an opportunity to check your gap before it gets into the actual first layer. I always print with a skirt and I adjust the level of my bed while it prints. A skirt is the best way to see how much "squish" you have. It also confirms the print will fit on the bed and the nozzle won't hit anything (like a clip).

I don't use brims typically, though I will admit there are sometimes parts that have very tricky geometry to print and I might want dense infill, and in those cases you can certainly use all the regular adhesion tricks like brims or glue stick. That's rare though.

Yes, it's more complicated than formica... ;-)
==============

The plate is not very flexible; I was able to bend it a little but I doubt doing this will be necessary. My next print will be a larger rectangular box that will test it's ability to hold something firmly and resist corner curl-up.

Thanks!
So a little adjustment then.

Birk Binnard In case you might hit some issue later, just a remind possible need to change configuration.h lower this value from 360 -> 355 or 350
# define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 350 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

And remember don't G29 with heated hotend, it hurts Zebra Plate ;p

HI Clarence - I understand that adding the Zebra plate decreases the total distance between Home and the top of the print bed. But I assumed that the AutoHome function would account for that. I've put an AutoHome function in each of my slicer's GCode startup settings so I figured that would be all I'd need to do.

TBH I don't have a clue about what the Manual_Z_Home position parameter does - and frankly messing with the printer's firmware makes me nervous. The last thing I want to do is brick the printer.

If no problem, you can forget about it. Just leave a clue in case you need to modify it if you meet some problem after G29 + Zebra plate.
Manual_Z_Home_POS is a default reference z height for G29 when probing.

我連雷射電源都用矽膠耐熱線....XD

18AWG

我用22AWG

22耐電流太小了

22應該只到8安培，你看一下你的熱床耗電量到幾安培，或是幾瓦 w

http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21445646417071 上面是寫120W

可以參考這些算一下，直流電很恐怖的說！相較於交流電放熱能力更高
http://bbs.pigoo.com/thread-20977-1-1.html
http://www.idrc.com.tw/big5_ver/menu/cable.htm

ATOM的電源應該是12V，熱床的耗電瓦數120W，那電流就是10A了，使用只耐8A的線，溫度當然會升高

若不慎融掉了短路，延長線或無融絲開關會卡一關，但就怕ㄧ時的火花噴到旁邊的影響⋯⋯
也有可能延地線一路瞬間融燒～ …… 查看更多

如果有改用工業用電源供應器的話，應該也會有過載和短路保護

弄個re累啦

改24V嗎?

那不會咑～咑聲很吵

除了線 板子也要考慮

DLP機型?

這個小豬會紅!!!!XD

很漂釀! 用什麼樣的漆?

哈哈哈哈 屌成這樣像話嗎 XDDDD

Worked on a piggy bank those days too :) ! Top part printed in PLA with my beloved Atom 2.0, bottom part concrete casted from a mold (mold printed with my ATOM of course!). There is still work to do but it's getting there!

太有梗了

小豬的活動不是民進黨(小英)開啟的嗎?怎會有國民黨與中國的黨徽 ~ -_- "

太有才了！

滿滿惡意ww

你好，這個作品感覺頗適合我們舉辦的活動XD
請問有興趣來參賽嗎？
http://iing.tw/3d

新管子果然厲害

殘料在加溫時應該會變軟並有黏性
多少會引想出料的穩定
鐵氟龍管不知有沒有相似的東西可以替換？
絕緣又耐熱不變形

恭喜, 恭喜, 加入黑頭管一族 :P

應該早就黑了，不想面對而已～～

看來要把換喉管加入 日常保養項目！！

真的

覺得是不是ATOM擠出頭溫度比顯示值要來得高？

話說 我還不會換喉管！！

晚點拿溫度計測測

我約一個月會換一次

其實我好懶得拆噴頭....XD

什麼，我以為丁大最認真，版上有誰比的過你呢？

曾俊維 我只是閒閒沒事順手玩玩而已啊XD

你是我心中的偶像啊。你太客氣了。

I had this same problem. I just cut off the burned part and put the rest of the tube back in the hot end. I've had no problem printing since then.

Really? Maybe I should try the way you did. Thanks.

Yes really! I'm in the US and it is hard to find tubing the proper size for Atom2. I posted here a pic of what my burned tube looked like but I don't know how to find old postings here. I really had no option other than to cut off the burned part and see what happened. Luckily it worked fine.

講到很取巧的換料，該不會直接剪斷用新料把舊料頂進去吧？

如果卡料時，我是直接從噴頭上的快速接頭抽開，然後把料剪斷，加熱後，把卡住的料抽出，再補上新的料，擠出來。就收工了