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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

原文網址 陳順得
2015-05-30 15:06:52

http://genkei.jp/3d-printer/atom-2/

同名機

Yu Shu Huang
2015-06-01 07:20:30

在他們攤位看到的是電焊機還有好漂亮的紫色透明料

陳順得
2015-06-01 08:04:56

那個超漂亮……回家之後試了很久,溫度可能230加上70以上的速度才有機會,


原文網址 Cad Cam Cnc
2015-05-29 17:44:54

Solidworks Solidcam Cnc Eğtimleri Ve 3D Printer Baskı Hizmetleri.
Kalıp Tasarımı ve imalatı

翻譯年糕


原文網址 李順福
2015-05-29 07:39:28

請問各位,我想要一台DLP光固化列印機,XY軸精度達0.03mm,成品可以脫蠟鑄造,希望各位幫忙介紹,謝謝!

廖新弘
2015-05-29 19:01:44

你試過ATOM印0.05嗎


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-05-29 02:08:04

New design - nice results

I changed the design of my ribbed vase so it has only one outside surface and one bottom surface. I had only a small amount of brown filament left so I printed a small test version of the part. I set Kisslicer's Skin Thickness to 4 mm, but it looks like the sides of the part are about 2 mm. This may be because I scaled it down to a small size due to lack of filament. (The last pic shows how much I had left when the print ended.)

I'm not sure why the outside surface looks so much better than the inside - see pics # 2 & 3. This may be a quirk of Kisslicer. But it does seem that a single-surface part can print OK; this means I do not have to be concerned about both outside and inside surfaces. Thanks to Clarence Lee for pointing that out.

翻譯年糕


原文網址 蕭閔吉
2015-05-28 21:58:28

請問溫度上不去(約190就降下來),是哪裡出問題?

廖新弘
2015-05-28 22:00:32

檢查一下加熱陶瓷的電線是否鬆動

蕭閔吉
2015-05-28 22:01:19

不懂?

廖新弘
2015-05-28 22:02:10

就紅色的插頭是否有插好

廖新弘
2015-05-28 22:04:49

1.0版還要檢查加熱陶瓷上面那顆螺帽是否確實有鎖緊,但是不能太緊,萬一太緊加熱陶瓷會破掉

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 22:05:11

加熱效率不足?... M303 S200重測看看?

蕭閔吉
2015-06-02 21:39:17

請問 Clarence Lee 大大,何謂加熱效率不足?M303 S200要怎麼測?(PS.我現在換上新的感溫器,還是一樣上不去@@"),會不會陶瓷加熱片壞了??

廖新弘
2015-06-02 21:50:36

換新的熱敏電阻建議重抓PID直

Clarence Lee
2015-06-02 21:56:59

測完可以,直接M500 存在eeprom, 不用重新寫在韌體的configuration.h

蕭閔吉
2015-06-02 22:02:12

謝謝你們^_^

蕭閔吉
2015-06-12 20:29:06

Clarence Lee 大大,請教一下,M303的指令是用什麼軟體輸入的?才可以像陳大網頁上的溫度圖表呢?^^"

Clarence Lee
2015-06-12 21:36:33

蕭閔吉 Repetier host

蕭閔吉
2015-06-12 22:50:36

請問是用USB直接連接控制板嗎?

Clarence Lee
2015-06-12 23:32:38

蕭閔吉
2015-06-12 23:34:10

我接上後「裝置管理員」說無法辨識耶@@'

蕭閔吉
2015-06-13 11:19:04

溫度回到正常,太感謝了^_^

蕭閔吉
2015-06-13 12:00:54

請教大大們,溫度正常後,又發現2個問題點:1.速度不正常,變的很慢。速度不是切片軟體給多少他就跑多少嗎?還是也有調校的參數?? 2.列印第一層時,擠出的PLA會有淚滴狀,列印時噴頭一直規律的抖動。如圖。

Clarence Lee
2015-06-13 17:37:29

gcode傳出來看看..還有M503列出來目前參數設定

Lawrence Lee
2015-06-13 18:20:55

有列印的影片可以看看嗎?抖動的狀況


原文網址 范智昆
2015-05-28 19:36:05

請教一下各位,加熱片已失效加熱,這零件一般電子材料行名稱是什麼?

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 19:37:53

陶瓷加熱片..這規格電子材料行應該不好找...?!
找ALT design拿可能比較快...

范智昆
2015-05-28 19:38:27

我的已經掛點了.......已發信件過去詢問了.感謝回應~!!!

Kean Tsai
2015-05-28 20:17:22

這個嘛~~找ATOM 最快!! 我缺什麼都找他們

范智昆
2015-05-28 20:18:23

呵~我人在新竹,想說問問看!

Kean Tsai
2015-05-28 20:20:17

我人在台中 但...我也是都麻煩他們用7-11寄過來

廖新弘
2015-05-28 20:35:47

露天也有,搜尋一下就有

H-m Lin
2015-05-28 20:39:57

atom 露天賣場部是有賣??

范智昆
2015-05-28 21:16:55

廖新弘
2015-05-28 21:19:41

也有其他廠商有賣阿

范智昆
2015-05-28 21:20:25

可否有連結?

H-m Lin
2015-05-28 22:09:52

對岸萬能的淘寶有

YS Allie Chow
2015-05-28 22:30:41

范先生~剛剛有回信給您了!明日上班時間馬上幫您處理!

范智昆
2015-05-30 21:54:53

YS Allie Chow 已收到零件了~感謝喔!!!

YS Allie Chow
2015-05-30 21:55:42

不客氣 ? ? ?

范智昆
2015-06-02 18:35:08

YS Allie Chow 我有寄一封信件給您,不知道有無收到嗎?

YS Allie Chow
2015-06-02 19:06:51

有!價錢明天確認給您

范智昆
2015-06-02 19:27:41

好的~非常感謝您~!!!


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 21:19:20

Good news and Bad news: the good news is I was able to print (almost) the ribbed vase I was having trouble slicing. To get it to slice I doubled the bottom's thickness from 3.1 mm to 6.2 mm. And when I printed the part I scaled it up from 110 mm high to 120 mm high.

With these changes Kisslicer seemed to slice it OK. However, Craftware still would not slice it properly. So I used Kisslicer's GCode to start printing. The estimated total print time was a little under 14 hours.

The print looked absolutely superb up to the time I went to sleep for the night. You can see how smooth the inside and outside surfaces are in the first image below. Without a doubt this is the highest quality I have printed so far. Setting Layer Height = 0.2 mm might be the key to that. I was hoping for a really great finished part when I got up the nest morning.

Unfortunately this was not the case. When I got up and turned on the light (it was just before 5AM) the printer was at about the 90% mark and doing just fine. I turned on my PC to get ready to post this message, and very shortly after that the printer stopped printing. I looked at the LCD and it had gone back to the main Info screen where it showed 0 for the heated temperature and the actual temperature dropping fast. So I had no choice but to stop the print and do an Auto-Home.

The printer is powered from the same power control center as my PC. This unit has 4 independently switchable power outlets and is itself connected to a UPS box. My guess is that there was a slight voltage drop caused by turning on my PC, and this somehow affected the Atom2's circuits.

After I did Auto-Home I checked the motherboard connection of the 2 yellow thermistor wires and that was fine. Then I tried Preheat to 200 and that worked OK. So I do think the printer is physically OK.

The second photo below shows the other problem I had: The bottom came off the part when I tried removing it from the print bed. In fact, the bottom did not print as designed - most likely as a result of what Andrew Lee discovered when he looked at the part's STL file. The bottom was supposed to be 6.2 mm thick, but in fact it printed a bottom only 0.6 mm thick (0.6 mm = 3 times 0.2mm layer thickness).

Even though this print failed I am very pleasantly surprised at the quality the Atom2 is capable of printing. I am going to change the way the bottom surfaces are created and try this print again - probably in a smaller version first. Hopefully that will yield an even more impressive result.

翻譯年糕

André Medborg
2015-05-27 21:41:44

Birk Binnard this makes me curious. Try send me the file. I would love to look at in my 3d setup. I think you have more than one surface in the buttom.

Clarence Lee
2015-05-27 21:45:20

Maybe find out the best temperature for this filament could help the problem.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282520/#instructions
BTW, layer 0.15, 0.1 event 0.05mm worth a try for the beautiful detail. ;p

Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 21:56:04

Andre - I'm sorry but I have deleted the STL file and have only the GCode left - so we will never know what actually happened. However, I have just finished re-defining how the part is made and I now have the inside surface joined with only the insid …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 23:22:42

Andre - I forgot that I had saved the STL file from the part you looked at on a cloud drive. I also put up there my "fixed" version of the part Here is the URL for both. The fixed one is called thermos.stl:

http://1drv.ms/1GDCLSZ …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 01:20:52

Finished slice this thermos.stl on Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.2
Peak memory usage is about 3.5GB
bottom is about 6.2mm …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 01:44:48

Birk Binnard
2015-05-28 02:59:27

Hi Clarence. I have the same version of Kisslicer as you do, and when I sliced thermos.stl I get strange results. My key parameters are 0.2mm layer thickness, Num loops = 3, Extrusion width = 0.38, Skin Thickness = 2 mm, and Infill = Vase.

Here are th …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 08:34:30

Why infill vase or hollow? I think slicer did them right. But for this stl, it should be infill at least 10? Check the start of my gcode, you can found the slicer setting there for reference.

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 08:37:32

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672
Check this stl, I think this kind of the model design would need to use infill=vase .
Suggest to design like that, a solid cylinder. …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2015-05-28 12:15:02

Clarence = thanks for your comments. Because I started designing models before I ever got a printer I had to guess how to do it. At the time it seemed to me that a vase or bowl type part should have an inside and an outside so it would have sufficient …… 查看更多


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 05:37:41

What is wrong with this part?

It is a small vase 110mm high with a flat bottom - see photo at bottom.

Here is the STL file (Ribbed.stl 134.31 MB): http://1drv.ms/1esOzMT

The original STL file (created with Rhino & Grasshopper) crashed Netfabb, both the free version and the online Model Repair Service version. So I ran it through MeshMixer's Analyze/Repair functions and that produced the file above. It loads with no errors into both Repeteir Host and Netfabb local, so I think the STL file is OK. But here are the results I get with different slicers:

Craftware 1.10: Slices OK but the bottom surface layers are not created until layer #3. And they are only 2 layers thick. And there is no infill like there should be.

Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.20: Slices OK but no bottom at all is generated

Repetier Host/Slic3R: Slices OK but no bottom at all is created

Repetire Host/Cura: Hangs after about 10% of slicing is completed

Visually I can't see anything wrong with the part. But there must be something not right.

翻譯年糕

Andrew Lee
2015-05-27 19:23:09

Hi Birk, I took a quick look and it looks like there are two problems:

1. The upper flat face at the bottom of the face (not the one touching the print bed) goes through the sidewalls of the vase. Instead it should be trimmed by the inner perimeter of the vase wall

2. The very bottom face (and maybe also the same upper face as mentioned before) seem to have duplicate surfaces on the same plane. This will also confuse the slicers or 3D model programs.

Andrew Lee
2015-05-27 19:26:00

1. The tiny edge peeking out of the outer side wall indicates that there is a surface with a perimeter running along it

Andrew Lee
2015-05-27 19:26:25

2. The odd pattern indicates that there are 2 surfaces on the same plane

Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 20:46:30

Hi Andrew - thanks for your help on this. I will make a new posting about what I did with this part to get it to print (sort of), but it's clear the key word in your comments above is "confuse".

Your observation that both of the surfaces of the bottom meet the outside surface of the part is correct. I could have trimmed the bottom's upper surface with the inside part surface, but I used the outside surface simply because that's the one I used to trim the bottom's bottom surface. I can easily use the part's inside as the trim surface; I will do this on my next print.

I did not think it mattered whether I used the inside or outside to trim the bottom's top surface because I thought slicers only cared about external surfaces, and ignored internal ones. I guess this is not the case.

I am not sure what to do about apparent duplicate surfaces. In the part design there are really only 1 of each. Each one is created as a boundary surface, where the boundary is the plane curve formed by the intersection of the outside surface with the top and bottom of a right circular cylinder that is somewhat larger in diameter than the actual part.

For my next print I will use a different method to create these surfaces. I'm not exactly sure what that method will be, but hopefully it will also resolve the problem you describe in #1 above. That one is surprising because I did a "join surface" to eliminate the naked edge at the intersection of the outside and bottom surfaces.

Thanks again for your help with this. It's clear I still have some things to learn about designing parts for 3D printing.


原文網址 陳順得
2015-05-26 21:46:45

冒昧問一下,不知道誰有用過木料,想借用一下各種參數
目前我用50mm/s列印,層高0.2,回抽5.5速度40,溫度195,會很容易堵料,不知道誰有更好的參數可以提供參考~

Clarence Lee
2015-05-26 21:52:54

不同家的不同批的參數會不會也不同?
製造商那邊問看看?

戴士偉
2015-05-26 22:23:46

用過... 直接堵料... 因為直徑在 1.6~1.9mm 飄來飄去 XD

爛透了

陳順得
2015-05-27 07:00:17

賣家參數根本慘數,看來看去都叫我用0.8的噴頭,可是我只有0.4…

戴士偉
2015-05-27 09:28:28

就拿個 0.8 鑽頭給他桶一下... 就..........好了(or GG了)

Rob Sam
2015-06-02 06:14:57

参數其次, 最主要是熱咀直徑! 試過0.4以下是沒有可能印到木料, 最理想是0.5咀.

Rob Sam
2015-06-02 06:15:08

参數其次, 最主要是熱咀直徑! 試過0.4以下是沒有可能印到木料, 最理想是0.5咀.


原文網址 Evan Lin
2015-05-26 10:52:57

最近練習使用Cura切片,利用其底層可以控制層高的特性解決玻璃平台無法完美修正的缺點,提高0.05mm層高的成功率。第一張圖左邊是0.1mm層高,右邊是0.05mm。0.05mm層厚不細看真的幾乎看不出來有層次。看似一切順利,但後來列印其他物品都會發現在固定層有出料不順無法牢固黏合或是擠料過多的情況,甚至連底層都會被Brim拔掉。當初以為是機構上的問題,卻一直找不出什麼原因,後來相同的物品使用KISSlicer卻完全沒問題,才知道是切片軟體問題。請問會是哪邊的設定出問題呢?

Evan Lin
2015-05-26 10:55:58

補上設定參數#1

Evan Lin
2015-05-26 10:57:47

補上設定參數#2

Evan Lin
2015-05-28 08:40:16

真是屋漏天逢連夜雨,前幾天是板子的5V供電故障,改以USB外接電源繼續工作,不知道是不是我幾乎24小時使用的關係,昨夜裡後吹散熱風扇罷工堵料了.....Orz 有人知道哪裡可以買得到適合的規格嗎?有沒有辦法利用另一個溫度量測散熱鰭片做第二層把關,過熱就讓機器暫停並降溫。

廖新弘
2015-05-28 15:54:06

噴頭的散熱風扇不是12V嗎,還是2·0版的新機板有改過,散熱風扇網拍有很多找一下應該不難吧

Evan Lin
2015-05-28 17:20:47

是12V沒錯,也利用空檔上網也買到了一樣的風扇。不過在整理噴頭的時候,熱敏電阻居然自己斷了.....現在已是室內淹水狀態,停擺。atom使用的熱敏電阻B值常數是3950嗎?

Evan Lin
2015-05-29 17:13:56

昨晚去光華尋找,以為這東西應該不難買,沒想到問了三四家大間的電子材料行都沒有,只好網路下訂。


 

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